West Africa Discovery

Responsible Travel in Sierra Leone - Part 3: Coconut & Poyo Paradise

2012-01-02T14:34:00.005Z

Part 3 of my trip to Sierra Leone follows on from 'Responsible Travel in Sierra Leone - Part 2 - The Provinces: Waterloo to Bo & Beyond' which you can read here.

Back to Waterloo, I was feeling much more comfortable with my surroundings. I bought a fresh coconut from 2 children who had a barrel full and which they opened with a machete, and walked to the taxi park near the market to which I had already been to before. I grabbed the first taxi to Tombo, the biggest fishing village on the peninsula, and immediately jumped on the back of an 'Okada' direction Bureh Beach of which I had heard a lot of good things.

Bureh Beach

My mission this time was to visit as many communities along the peninsula as I could whilst walking the length of the beach. So, I walked through Bureh Town down to the beach. There I met a few local guys who called themselves 'Beach Boys' and who looked after the accommodation. The day had been long, so I decided to stay for the night. The sun was still up, there were some waves on which the locals were surfing, so naturally I grabbed a body-board and joined in the fun.

Maroon Island at Sunset

After dinner, with which I had the most amazing groundnut soup, I chatted to my new found friends and was then invited to their house to listen to some music and drink 'Poyo' (palm wine), which I readily accepted. Walking through the community, I could see myself living in a place like this: sitting around candlelit courtyards, sipping on palm wine whilst discussing the latest news. A slow pace of life which made me feel privileged to have been given the opportunity to experience it.

Bureh Beach & Maroon Island

That night I went for a walk on the moonlit beach. The waves were gently lapping against the shore and the outline of the tall and bent palm trees were distinct against the pure star filled sky. The shape of Maroon Island, so called because the first 'Maroons' (runaway slaves) landed there in the 1700's, was apparent in the distance. This idyllic scene seemed like a dream, probably emphasized by the Poyo, and I had to pinch myself a couple of times to make sure that it was indeed reality. This set the scene for my 2 day 'beach walk'.

Palm Tree Point - Bureh Beach

Waving Goodbye to my hosts

The next morning, I waved goodbye to my hosts and crossed a river - one of many flowing down from the forest covered mountain range into the Ocean - before heading off at a slow pace towards the next community. Along the way, I laid my backpack down and went for a swim in the translucent water. Feeling refreshed, I continued along my way following the magnificent coastline that stretched as far as the eye could see. After about an hour's walking, I reached the John Obey community (see part 1) where I said hello to the friends I had made and to check on the progress of the second earth bag dome, before I moved on to my next destination: Tokeh.

John Obey Community hauling the fishing boats onto the beach

I had heard that Tokeh was a fine producer of Poyo, so I decided to inquire as to who was the best Palm Wine seller in Town. I was told to ask for Katy at the bus station, and a little girl was ordered to show me the way. We walked through alleys bordered by mud walls covered in raffia and arrived in a small courtyard where men were drinking palm wine. When they saw me, they made me feel at home straight away and gave me a jar of Poyo to start off. I stayed there for about an hour and learnt a lot about Tokeh and the surrounding area. Finally, before departing, as I was going to meet a friend at my next destination, I bought a gallon of Poyo for the road and set off towards the beach.

Friends made at Katy's Place in Tokeh

There I met some fishermen who offered to take me to some 'twin' islands which I had noticed in the distance, for a nominal fee of course. I decided to accept the offer and jumped into the dugout canoe along with my bag. I had not realised how unstable the boat was and thought we were going to capsize a few times. Finally we arrived on the islands and my guide waited at the boat for me. I could see that a storm was coming, so I quickly walked around the island and got back to the canoe just in case. I felt like I was on a treasure Island, and who knows, maybe I was.

The 'Twin Islands' in the distance

Looking back from the Islands with my guide, Mohammed

On the way back to mainland

When I reached the beach, I grabbed my bag, paid my guide, and then went on my way along the beach towards River #2, singing a song to myself about Palm Wine drinking Pirates.

River #2 is a pioneer in community based tourism. The guest houses available to day trippers or seasonal domestic tourists are owned by the community, and each member of the community contributes to the project. The activities, accommodation, food, reception, transport, are all provided by the community, and therefore the money goes back to the community itself. It seems to work well and is well organised.

River #2 Lagoon

After a grueling walk of about an hour and half, I reached the last river I needed to cross before I reached my destination. Just as I got there, a canoe pulled up carrying others across. The timing was perfect. When I stepped off the boat, I was greeted by Ishmael, Daniel's (my friend) little cousin, who had been expecting me. He guided me to my beach hut, where I would be staying the night. I then had a well-deserved swim.

My accommodation at River #2

I was then brought a bowl of rice and fish covered in a very spicy ‘hot pepper sauce’ as well as two freshly picked coconuts. This was going to be my last dinner before I left paradise so I appreciated every mouthful of ‘chop’ and every sip of fresh coconut milk whilst staring at the clear horizon whilst the sun was setting. The coconut milk was probably the best I had ever tasted.

That night, my hosts decided to build a bonfire around which we sat to talk about their stories and my experiences in Sierra Leone. I was told many stories about the civil war which I will not recount here because I feel they are too graphic to share within this blog, but I must say that I realised how awful the whole situation was. You can see a film like ‘blood diamond’ a million times, but will never get even close to understanding what the local communities went through until you hear the stories from the mouths of those who were on the ‘front line’.

We talked well in to the night, the moon shining down onto the Ocean gently caressing the golden sands of River #2.

River #2 Community Based Tourism project

The next morning I awoke to the resident cockerel pecking away at the half coconuts left over from the night before. I opened my tent’s door to a blazing sun and went straight to the sea for an early morning swim. The fire’s remains were still smoking. Daniel brought breakfast and we drank our coffee speaking about the days plan. I was to meet up with my contacts at the National Tourism Board so that they could show me more of the peninsula and the potential that it has for the development of responsible tourism.

After having had a refreshing bucket shower, and having packed up my rucksack, we walked to the top of the dirt road and hailed down a heavy duty truck on which we jumped and rode back to Tokeh where we were to meet Umaru Woody and his colleagues of the National Tourism Board.

To be continued… ‘The great potential for responsible tourism in Sierra Leone’

Responsible tourism can be practiced in a variety of ways as long as it benefits the local communities in which you spend time, whilst respecting the local heritage. One of the ways to do so is to meet with the local communities, share stories, accept invitations, be curious but respectful, be friendly and humble, and make sure that the money you spend is shared amongst the most people possible. You can buy local drinks (like Poyo), participate in activities organised by the local communities, stay in local accommodation and make sure you know where the money goes, how it is shared. By doing so, you will get to know the people with whom you stay, the places you visit more intimately and have an overall more authentic and satisfying experience.

To discover more of the authentic experiences you can have in West Africa, don’t hesitate to visit www.westafricadiscovery.co.uk or join a growing community passionate about Travel in West Africa on Facebook.

Responsible Travel in Sierra Leone - Peninsula, Provinces and Palm Wine (Part 2)

2011-11-24T14:57:00.013Z

Following on from the first installment of his adventure, Thomas recounts his experiences on his journey through Sierra Leone to discover tourism projects which work towards implementing the responsible tourism concept of "making destinations better places to live in, and better places to visit"

Part 2: The provinces - Waterloo to Bo & Beyond

My next mission was to visit another community tourism project based around an Island of outstanding natural beauty and rich in biodiversity found on the Moa River, and on the fringes of the Gola Forest in the South-East of Sierra Leone. Tiwai Island is owned by 8 communities who live around it, and, in theory, they all benefit equally from tourism. I am planning on basing my MSc Responsible Tourism Management dissertation on how this can be done successfully.

To reach Tiwai, I was to take a 'Poda Poda' (local mini-bus) from Waterloo to Bo, then travel from Bo to Potoru from where I was told to catch an 'Okada' (motorbike taxi) to Kambama where you can take a speedboat to reach the Island.

One of the villages dotting the side of the highway

The journey from Waterloo to Bo went without any incidents. We stopped a few times to pick people up or drop them off and this gave me the opportunity to learn a bit more about the differences between the coast and the hinterland. At every stop, tradesmen/women would come to the vehicles windows selling plantain crisps, 'Benny Cake' (sesame seed and sugar), grilled meat, bananas, oranges, corn, water, etc... you could never go hungry. The road was perfect. No pot-holes anywhere. I later learnt that an Italian prospecting company had invested in tarmacking the road which has now made a big difference between a day-long journey and a 3-4 hour journey.

The image which says: "West Africa" to me.

Arriving at Bo, I noticed a lot of social campaigns which were going on. Billboards denouncing domestic violence, encouraging family planning, addressing the AIDS/HIV issue, promoting agriculture and community, and many more. It was also my first reminder that there had been a civil war not so long ago. Billboards promoting the 'Guns for Development' campaign where an NGO was buying guns off people (very successful), 'Social Integration' and 'Peace Development' were common words around the city, even Diamond re-sellers were called 'Peace & Love'. Bo and the Provinces were the hardest hit by the civil war and where the worst atrocities were committed.

Example of social development billboards (terriblyfabulous.wordpress.com)

From Bo to Potoru - a ‘junction town’ leading to several villages, one of which was my destination - the road was less favorable. The rainy season was just ending, so heavy rain showers were common place. Pot-holes and mega-puddles dotted the road, and our driver - who's name is William 'Bobo' Decker - expertly guided the 'Poda Poda' without even breaking a sweat. Orange vendors and Plantain Crisp sellers were everywhere. The smell of 'the bush' is something you never forget. The sweet scent of tropical flowers mixed with the damp earth smell, the odour of oranges and limes; this coupled with the landscape of lush green vegetation, small streams meandering across the dirt road, the bridges crossing over fast flowing mighty rivers; time seems to go slowly yet you don't see it fly by.

Road to Potoru. Notice the storm in the distance.

Potoru, which I later learnt was a rebel stronghold during the 1992 to 2002 war, was a quiet village which had a certain vibe about it. People were very friendly, respectful and eager to please. It was noticeably a trading hub too, being at the junction linking several villages together. We briefly stopped before we headed direction Kambama. Bobo Decker kindly offered to take me all the way as he had noticed that a tropical storm was brewing in the distance and knew that I would've gotten soaked if I had taken an 'Okada' (motorbike taxi).

The road was still dirt but was much better than the Bo to Potoru route. This was partly due to the small amount of vehicles that rode this way. We could see the storm approaching. Like a grey blanket, it covered the landscape, engulfed the forest, roads and villages. I thanked Bobo, as you can imagine. Finally, we arrived at Kambama. It was dusk and the distance rumble of thunder reminded us that we didn't have much time before another storm would unleash its wrath. I was guided down a path, from the village to the river bank and got on a speedboat captained by Ibrahim who told us a story about how crocodiles in the river and villagers had a mutual respect for each other.

Tiwai Island

Local guide from Kambama leading me into the jungle

When we set foot on the island, I felt like an explorer. This was the real jungle! Creepers were hanging from the forest canopy, the sound of insects was overwhelming, birds were nesting above us. We started walking towards the camp where I would stay the night, and suddenly I heard something moving in the branches above me. I looked up and saw a black and white blur. A double take revealed that it was a monkey, a Diana monkey to be more precise. Ibrahim said: "This is a good start, you have already been very lucky!" and he was right.

Can anyone identify this spider?

Red Colobus Monkey

The next morning, after a beautiful night's sleep, I went with a local guide on a 3 hour jungle trek where I saw a group of Red Colobus Monkeys, Black & White Colobus', Diana Monkeys, Suti Mangabe's, Hornbills, 'big-as-your-hand' spiders building their webs which shone golden-greenish hues when reflecting the sun’s rays, and the cream of the crop: 2 duikers; a very rare sighting according to my guide. Unfortunately, but not surprisingly, we did not come across the elusive pygmy hippo. Maybe next time.

Solar power at Tiwai. Tent hut in the distance.

Traditional building where the food was prepared

During my stay, I also took a canoe onto the Moa River and learnt about traditional fishing techniques, wildlife, plants and pygmy hippo habits, as well as how to call monkeys by pinching your nose, mouth and emitting a cry so that they come to you thinking that you are a baby monkey in distress. The local language is Mende (from the Mende tribe) of which I learnt how to say:

'Hi Man/Old Man/Young Woman/Children' = 'Dake/Keke/Niande/Dupui Boaa'

'How are you?' = 'Ka hui ye na?'

'I am fine' = ' Ka ing goma'

The next morning, I took the speedboat at 4am in the morning to catch the local transport back from mainland. I will never forget speeding up the River Moa lit only by moonlight. That was definitely an experience.

In the next installment, Part 3: Back to the Peninsula - Coconut & Poyo Paradise, Thomas visits the communities located on the Western Peninsula to discover the tourism projects already put in place and the potential for implementing the responsible tourism concept.

To learn more about Responsible Tourism in West Africa, you can either visit the West Africa Discovery web portal, or join the growing community of West Africa passionate people here.

Travels in Sierra Leone: Peninsula, Provinces and Palm Wine #1

2011-11-12T10:36:00.005Z

After coming back from Sierra Leone, and having had one of the most amazing times of my life, I decided to share my experience with others to hopefully inspire more people to go and explore this beautiful yet misunderstood part of the World. This is the first part of Travels in Sierra Leone: Peninsula, Provinces and Palm Wine.

When I first mentioned that I wanted to travel to Sierra Leone, I would have been a rich man if I was paid for every time someone either said: "Isn't there a civil war in Sierra Leone?" or "It's dangerous in Sierra Leone, are you crazy?". My answer to them was: "Sierra Leone has been at peace for 11 years" or "You're crazy for not going!". The misconceptions of Sierra Leone's current state are still rife, partly because of the 2006 film Blood Diamond, which wasn't even filmed in SL, and the lack of people willing to go there themselves to bring back true stories about a country struggling to change their image and grow in a positive way. Needless to say that I wanted to be one of those people: a bringer of news from a land which deserves to be viewed as a beacon for hope and World historical heritage rather than for a brutal civil war built around greed and deception.

I arrived at Lungi airport at 9:30pm. The first thing that you experience is the difference in climate (if you had come from the Northern Hemisphere). I went through passport check. No problems there. Collected my bags quick sharp. Outside was the usual bunch of porters, taxi drivers and name card brandishing guys. I was then directed to the Water Taxi ticket office -Lungi airport is on a different peninsula to Freetown, and to get to the other you need to either take a Water Taxi, Ferry, Speedboat or Helicopter. In not time, I was speeding towards Freetown. When we approached the Aberdeen port, I got a small insight into what to expect from Salone, little electricity, candle light, humidity, a slow pace of life and a community feel. I disembarked and changed my money (current rate: $1 = 4500 Leones) with a guy called Solomon, just in time for my ride to arrive to take me to my first destination, John Obey beach.

Part 1: John Obey - Community-exchange & Sustainable Living Tourism Project

When I arrived, I was greeted with a big plate of chop (food in Krio) and a Star beer (national beer of Sierra Leone) by Kat, a volunteer overseeing the project. We got along straight away and then I was introduced to the night security guards, Momo and Mister Alou Sene who is also the village Imam. I was shown to my accommodation and after debating about the differences and similarities of Islam and Christianity (SL is 50/50 and there are no conflicts) until 4am, I called it a night.

Mister Alou Sene & Momo, the security guards

The next morning, I awoke to the sound of waves crashing and birds twittering. I slowly rose from my mosquito net covered 'four-poster' bed and opened the door to my beach shack to discover Sierra Leone in the daytime. It was beautiful! Just outside my accommodation was a lagoon which rose and fell with the Ocean tide, multicoloured butterflies flew gracefully between the palm trees, a gentle breeze carried the smell of jasmine around the shack. Welcome to Sierra Leone!

The lagoon at low tide

My beach shack for 3 nights

After breakfast I was shown around the project. Solar tower, recycling area, compost toilets, earth bag 'honeydomes', permaculture garden, bucket showers, all the signs of a sustainable development project that works. The project also employs 30 people from the local community, 10 of them were working on a new structure using the skills they had learnt over the past year to build earth bag domes as accommodation for guests. I was told that this was the main project, so I lent a hand on the 'building site'. By the afternoon, after lunch, the structure was nearly finished. I was given the honor of laying the last earth bag on the top which we then celebrated by playing drums and singing. Such a good feeling!

From left to right: Solar tower, recycling center and compost toilets

Happy faces after the earth dome was completed

For the next couple of days at Tribewanted, I learnt how to cook 'special sauce', practiced yoga, went to visit the local school, cooked an amazing 'lime and spice mackerel wrapped in banana leaves and baked in the mud oven' dish, swam every morning and every night at sunset, went baby croc spotting, drank palm wine, visited the market at Waterloo, experienced tropical thunderstorms, visited the improvised turtle sanctuary on the beach, listened to local legends around the hot stove, learnt about the local communities' aspirations and positive ambitions. As you can imagine, it was hard to leave, but my feet were itching to walk other paths and discover more of hidden Salone (Sierra Leone).

John Obey School photo...

A John Obey sunset...

To be continued... next time: Part 2: The provinces - Waterloo to Bo & Beyond

To learn more about my project, visit www.westafricadiscovery.co.uk or join us on Facebook.

2011-11-12T10:36:00.001Z

Tips on How to be a Responsible Tourist (in West Africa ) by Sandy Asuming

2011-10-11T13:02:00.006+01:00

Sandy Asuming, a student from the Gambia, shares with us her passion for the development of the responsible tourism concept in West Africa by explaining how the tourists themselves can help implement very simple changes in behaviour which can have major impacts on the sustainability of destinations and the local communities living there.

Responsible tourism is about tourists making environmentally friendly, sustainable, ethical and respectful choices when travelling and minimising the negative impact of tourism. Being responsible is something all tourists needs to take into consideration when making a decision on travelling to a destination.

Responsible travel can be considered as the most enjoyable way to travel because it brings you closer to local people and culture, it gives you the chance to experience the authenticity of the destination. It shares some of the benefits of tourism more widely with local communities, and helps minimised some of the negative impacts tourism might often have. No matter the type of travel you’re involved in, tourism brings both positive and negative impacts to a destination but responsible travel and tourism maximises the benefits of tourism and reduces some of the negatives.

The majority of us travel to experience new cultures, take on new challenges, experience new activities, or even to discover ourselves. Travelling gives us the opportunity to take a break from our typical daily routines and to reflect on the importance of life. But yet almost all travellers show an abject ignorance of anything other than a westernised world view. Being a responsible tourist can make a big difference by supporting the type of tourism that is not harmful to the environment and is supportive of local communities who lead the effort to gain or maintain sustainable livelihoods.

Contact between tourists and local people may result in mutual appreciation, therefore tourists need to be aware of local customs, traditions and to show respect to the host community in question. Residents will then be open minded and will be more willing to be educated about the outside world without leaving their homes, while their visitors significantly learn about a distinctive culture. Local communities are benefited through contribution by tourism to the improvement of the social infrastructure like schools, libraries, health care institutions, internet cafes, and so on. If local culture is the basis for attracting tourists to the region, it is important to preserve the local traditions and handicrafts.

If tourists’ attitudes change and they allow themselves to become responsible travellers, the host communities will benefit from this by protecting endangered wildlife, as the importance of preserving and conserving this resource will become more apparent. Many of West Africa’s countries depend on their wildlife as tourist attractions and if it’s not protected, there will be a decline of tourist numbers and as a result will have a bad effect on the economy. For example every year around 23000 tourists visit the Bijilo forest park in the Gambia and because the park is close to Banjul which is the capital city, it is easy for tourists to commute from the park to the town. However, the number of incoming visitors tends to be high which causes overcrowding. This causes damage to local wildlife especially the green monkeys which no longer find the need to look for food but instead sit beside nearby road sides and wait for tourists to feed them. In addition, tourists purchase bags of peanuts for the animals and litter the grounds with the empty bags. This is a danger for the monkeys who attempt to ingest them. Also, by over feeding these monkeys, they become over-friendly and become susceptible to theft by poachers.

Bearing this in mind, it is advisable for tourists to be educated on the effect of their ignorance. In doing so, tourists will become responsible for their actions while enjoying the experience.

At the end of the day by protecting and enhancing favourite destinations, future enjoyment for visitors and local resident will be sustained.

Another point is that tourists need to recognise that water and energy are precious resources which need to be used carefully. It’s important to buy from the local stores, use local taxis, local tour guides etc. All these little transactions help the local community. In the Gambia, for example, there is an excellent selection of good quality restaurants, therefore by eating in local restaurants you are ensuring that your visit benefits the wider community.

Applying the WCED’s definition of sustainability¹ to tourism, as coined in Bruntland’ Commission, the reason for responsible travel to be practised is “to meet the needs and aspirations of the present without compromising the ability to meet the need and aspiration of future generations.” The core issue is conserving resources. There is a need to balance social, economic and environmental impacts for both tourists and host communities.

To learn more about projects that work towards implementing responsible tourism principles in the Gambia, you can view out selection here.

You can also learn more about travelling in and around West Africa by joining our growing community of 1000+ people passionate about West Africa and its beautiful local heritage.

¹ World Commission on Environment and Development (1987). Our Common Future. Oxford: Oxford University Press.

Tourism as a Tool for Poverty Reduction in West Africa - by Sandra Asuming

2011-07-20T19:41:00.009+01:00

Every year different NGO’s, and other private organisations come together with one purpose: to raise money to reduce poverty in the world. This gesture extends to the whole of the African continent. The idea of these fund-raising activities is to help improve the lifestyle and betterment for the poor. There are numerous NGO's with different aims to reduce poverty in Africa. Orphan Aid Africa helps families of children at risk of abandonment and gives them secure futures within their communities in Ghana, Igbo Charitable Association Inn is an organization delivering community level poverty alleviation support to people in Eastern Nigeria and creating employment opportunities for young people in all of Africa and the Helping Hands Healing Ministries Inc is also another charitable organisation helping the poorest of the poor with educational, medical, social, and spiritual needs. All of these organisation have one thing in common to provide any help they can in education, employment, security and safety for the young and old.

Poverty alleviation is an important issue for many developing countries within western Africa. It is believed that poverty can be alleviated mainly through achieving higher sectoral growth and ensuring that the poor have a share in that growth. Both the tourism industry and community development are still at a very early stage of understanding what will actually work most effectively in reducing poverty through tourism development, there is evidence that tourism contributes a lot to the economic growth, especially in countries with poor economies through foreign exchange earnings, creation of employment opportunities and provision of public revenues. Therefore with proper intervention, such economic benefits can play a crucial role in the process of poverty alleviation.

Tourism can be a tool for poverty alleviation but the challenge is 'how' and 'where' tourism can intervene to provide opportunities, employment, and security for the poor at the local level and boost economic growth at the national and regional level. It is a fact that tourism is one of the few industries in which many developing countries actually have a comparative advantage over developed countries in term of cultural heritage, climate, wildlife etc. Therefore tourism can be an effective tool to bring about these synergies. By focusing on rural areas instead of the urban areas (capital cities) in western Africa, pro-poor tourism can be used to not only promote tourism in unknown areas but also to provide opportunities and access for both tourists and local residents.

Since tourism operates through different geographical areas such as remote mountainous, coastal and forest environments, it can be an important tool which could reduce poverty at national, rural and urban levels. For example when visiting Ghana, instead of spending all their time on Labadi beach in Accra, tourists can be more adventurous and go on a mountain biking excursion on Mount Afadjato in the Akwapim-Togo Ranges. In doing this tourists’ spending can provide economic gain through the creation of full time or part-time employment, it has the potential to reduce rural ‘out-migration’ to urban areas, or create other livelihood benefits such as access to potable water, roads which bring poor producers through, improved access to markets, improved health or education.I therefore believe tourism is an appropriate mechanism for poverty reduction. Tourism contributes to economic growth, and also has a positive effect on social, environment and cultural benefits; but having said that, it also has it negative aspect to it. Tourism can create high level foreign ownership which leads to a high level of economic leakage and minimizes local economic benefits; however this can be seen in any other industry. This has led to the creation of The Association of Small Scale Enterprises in Tourism (ASSET) by the British High Commission in 1999 and established in 2000 in the Gambia. ASSET brings together 40 small and micro enterprises including craft market vendors, tourist taxi drivers, official tourist guides, juice pressers and fruit sellers. It also includes a number of small hotels, guest houses and ground tour operators. Its main objective is to enable small-scale tourism enterprises to benefit from the industry by putting pressure on the government and local leaders to do more for them such as tax relieve easy business set-up processes and infrastructure development such as markets. Also, through the United Nations Development Program (UNDP), the government received an International Development Assistance (IDA) to help build road networks linking the hotels, the airport and the main urban centres.

So, considering the above, with the effect and contribution of the tourism industry to the world and especially developing countries, the continuation and improvement of these measures will surely help sustain and improve the local economies at the receiving end of tourism.

For more information on tourism projects in West Africa which are working towards reducing poverty and creating opportunities for local economies through their activities, visit the West Africa Discovery web portal, or join a community dedicated to travel in West Africa by clicking here.

How Tourism can Benefit Destinations: The Gambia - by Sandra Asuming

2011-06-28T19:31:00.006+01:00

At West Africa Discovery we are always looking for stories, photos, videos and articles as to how tourism can benefit local communities in destinations. The following contribution has been put forward by Sandra Asuming who spent some time in The Gambia discovering how, if sustainably and responsibly managed, tourism can have positive effects for underdeveloped countries.

Travelling to Gambia for the first time was odd as I didn't know what to expect, if am being honest, Gambia as a tourist destination was something I never considered when planning a holiday until I entered Leeds metropolitan university in 2008.

Studying international tourism management meant I would have the opportunity travel. The first trip on this course was to the Gambia and the main purpose was to explore the country, as well as discovering the benefit of tourism to one of the poorest country in the world. As a tourism student I have leant that tourism is an important sector in the economy, as it provides employment opportunities for local residents, earns valuable foreign exchange for the host destination, it can help improve social lifestyles. Tourism has been accepted as a tool for development in developing countries such as the Gambia. The industry generates a lot of employment opportunities especially for the youth in Gambia. Through tourism around 26000 people are employed either directly or indirectly. The employment figures are for full-time jobs or part-time job equivalents in the case of persons. These jobs include tour guides, beach vendors and souvenir traders. Tourism in the Gambia is thus essential to the economy and to the people. The end benefit of this is income earned by parents which goes towards their children education and the betterment of their living conditions.

My experience in the Gambia was extra-ordinary as I witness the importance of international tourism; their export earner is a big factor in the balance of payments of the Gambia. The global foreign currency receipts overtake the exports of oil products, motor vehicles, telecommunications equipment, textiles or any other product or service. Tourism jobs and businesses can be created in the most underdeveloped regions of Gambia by providing an incentive for residents to remain in rural areas rather than moving to overcrowded cities. Travel and tourism stimulate enormous investment in new infrastructure, most of which helps to improve the living conditions of local residents as well as tourists in Gambia. Tourism development projects often include airports, roads, marinas, sewage systems, and water treatment plants, restoration of cultural monuments, museums and nature interpretation centres. The tourism industry provides governments with extra tax revenues each year through accommodation and restaurant taxes, airport taxes, sales taxes, park entrance fees, employee income tax and many other fiscal matters. The Gambia has established itself as a tourism destination which caters for people who want to exchange cold weather for sunny sandy beach and sunshine. Therefore travelling to Gambia also has a benefit for individual needs and desires.

The Gambia is a peaceful and stable destination which offers the best climate in the world all year and has amazing landscapes. The country is known as the smiling coast of Africa. This makes the Gambians warm and friendly people with a contagious relaxed attitude to life. A visit to Gambia will give you the chance to interact with local people, try local cuisines, and visit historical site and most of all relaxing on the beach. During my week in the Gambia I visited a lot of interesting places such the craft market, there the local men and women craft interesting art to take as a souvenir to take back home. Serekunda market was one place worth visiting; the place has items one would not think existed. A Gambia holiday excursion consists of bird watching, boat rides on the Gambia River, a tour of the national park to see the monkey sanctuary, eco-tourism for those of you who are interested in the conservation and preservation of unique areas of Gambia.

I thoroughly enjoy my time in the Gambia and there is plenty more to explore there. It is definitely a ‘must-go-and-see’ for everyone. It is important to travel to this country as it helps increase the awareness of tourism and increase revenue to the economy and improves local lifestyles.

For more information on responsible tourism, sustainable travel opportunities in West Africa or just to get in touch, you can visit our web portal at www.westafricadiscovery.co.uk, or connect through facebook or twitter.

Asabaako Festival: a Celebration of Music, Peace and Culture on a Beach in Ghana

2011-03-23T18:49:00.023Z

At West Africa Discovery we love to hear about community based events organised in West Africa for the people by the people, especially if it entails amazing music, a fun loving atmosphere, beach parties and loads of dancing!

Our friends at Blogging Tracks have recently organised, in association with the Moringa Tree, a festival in Ghana aiming to bring people from around the World, Ghana and the local community together to experience the fundamental universal constant which is Music! Below is an account of the organisation that went in to the event, how it all went and the vibe that transcended the whole festival. Enjoy, it's a great read and there are some amazing artists that you may want to check out.

AND SO...The Asabaako Music Festival train pulled into Busua village last weekend for two days of live music and SERIOUS beach parties!! After 2 years of figuring out how this might work and a mad few weeks of preparation, everybody came together to make the Asabaako Music Festival a very special event, combining the most beautiful beach setting with a mix of traditional to modern African and African-inspired music. People came from around Ghana and mixed with those from around the world, alongside a village of people whose energy, enthusiasm and welcome left everybody awestruck.

Our Asabaako DJs Kobby Graham, Rita Ray, DJ Juls and Guynamite made daytimes chilling by the beach, sipping on coconut milk and rum, just that little bit more perfect, spinning anything from Afrobeat to hip hop, afro-funk & soul to high life, reggae and loads more.

Asabaako is a way for us to provide a platform for younger artists with Bless the Mic, bringing a bus full of underground MCs from Takoradi to tear up this usually quiet village resort. Performances from Sketches, Spooky, Nero, Jay Billz, Pictures, King Arthur, Scurry plus Macho Rapper, while Kweku Ananse brought a whole different vibe with his solo balafon performance.

The Agona brass band got everybody moving, while one of Ghana’s hottest rappers, Yaa Pono, took the crowd in the palm of his hands with his distinctive flow and hard hitting punchlines.

Wanlov the Kubolor, our headline artist representing Pidgen Music, had already got the village’s attention by strolling through town in his trademark dreadlocks with nothing but a tight pair of swimming trunks. But things got really interesting when he introduced his African Gypsy band, including a French accordion player and violinist, to bring something completely different to Asabaako.

And the after parties...WOH. Man....they were serious. They were serious beach parties man. I can’t even really put them into words. Big ups to our Busua DJs, Shocka and Andy Stoner!

Smashed it.

It was a fantastic community effort, with boys from the village helping to put the stage together, running around picking up last minute generators, getting food together for our artists...and best of all, the village LOVED it. I’ve been walking through the street since having anyone from kids to old women shout “ASABAAKO!” at me as I go by. Which is nice.

OK, so preparation was a little complicated. What was supposed to be a 2-day beach party about 5 weeks before, took an interesting turn when US hip hop legend Talib Kweli tweeted to his 260,000 followers that he wanted to perform...despite the difficulty we knew we’d face, we gave it a go, had it lined up, but were then forced to cancel due to sponsorship problems...eventually taking us BACK to our original plan... (That’s a very long story short)

The past year has been an amazing experience of highs and lows, and it’s as if that was all building towards some crescendo of madness that carried into the last few hours of Asabaako 2011. Talib, no Talib....sponsorship, no sponsorship, bit of sponsorship maybe....but we got there, we did it, despite the various and plentiful challenges and pitfalls, we did it, and not without thanks to the dozens of people who helped us, along the way and on the day itself. It’s been an emotional rollercoaster like nothing you would ever imagine, but we’ve got there.

BIG LOVE to (in alphabetical order)...The first Asabaako is done, and preparation is underway for the next with an increased programme and international artists currently in discussions. And I’m telling you...BIG tings about to happen here in Ghana!

So I guess this is where we say thank you...It’s quite a list. So let’s get on with it. Thank you EVERYONE for EVERYTHING you’ve done to help us get where we are, for those who helped us out when times got hard, who believed in us when doubt reared its ugly head. Your support, guidance, advice, contacts and stress relief techniques have started something that more and more people now see will really, truly grow into something very special.

Achoo, African Rainbow (Bill, Sewa, Nana and the team), Africa Cola (Aicha, Pierre and the team), Akua and Louise, Akwaaba UK (Eben and Elliot), Ameyaw Debrah, Amy Clark, Bob Gallagher, Bibie Brew, Bill Bedzrah, Ben Bish Clark, Black Star Surf Shop (Naiomi, Yaw, Kofi, Charles, Ernest, Nat and the team), Bless the Mic, Busua Inn (Daniel & Oliver), Brown Berry, Dadson Lodge (Mama Betty, Julie and my many Dadson wives), David Thomas, Ebeneezer Bentum, Entertainment Revolution (Regis and Ben), Fayzbuqbwoi AbeikuQuansah Breezy, Fiona Stewart, Ghana Facebookers (Nana Yaw, Bizzy Mill, Eli, Gamel et al), GhanaWestCoast.com (Lorena and Stephen), The supportive family!, Green Turtle Lodge (Tom and Jo), Ian Bowden, Iso Paelay, Jay Hill, Jean Berthon, Jambo Lafferty, Jon K Fidler, Kajsa, Kate Marriage, Kobby Graham, Kofi Amponsah, Kweku Ananse, i-cr8 (T, Alima and the team), Lisa Lovatt-Smith of OrphanAid Africa, Macho Rapper, Macjordan, Mantse, Marie Howell, Melody FM and Gyandoh, M3nsa (next year I'm telling you!!), MMRS Ogilvy (Miguel, Nathalie, Fred and the team), The Moringa Tree (Chris Vaughan & the team), Nana Chillin, Nana Queci Otu Nketsia, Ms Naa, Neon Comms UK (Sam, Rols and the kids), Nick, Tom, Steve and the “overlanders”, Nii Ayertey Aryeh, Nii Sai Doku, Paa K Holbrook Smith, Paa Kwesi aka

RASTAMAN, Panji Anoff and Pidgen Music, Paul Stagg, Pete Nardini (Surf Shop & Black Star Development NGO), PY, Quantas, Rita Ray, Sidique, Skyy TV and Radio, The SRK, Stak Dollar Bundles and the OC crew, Takoradi Facebookers, Tacitus, Trenton Birch, Uncle Ralph Casely-Hayford, Valerie Lesbros, Vodafone (Cynthia and the B&S team), Wanlov the Kubolor, Yaa Pono, Yemisi Mokuolu of Out of Africa, and everyone else who's pointed us in the right direction or lent a helping hand along the way.

And a special thanks to all the people of Busua for letting us party on your beach, partying alongside us, helping to get everything together and for your continued support. We hope the festival will continue to bring business your way and show the world what a beautiful place you have here.

So, another mighty step... and now we continue. Join our Facebook page at www.facebook.com/asabaako or visit www.asabaako.com for updates on the next event.

For more information on West Africa, its rich local heritage, and tours, accommodations and volunteer projects which will give you the opportunity to discover first hand how beautiful this region is, visit the West Africa Discovery website, or you can join us on Facebook.

Adventure travel in West Africa - Part 2: Ghana

2010-08-24T18:10:00.012+01:00

In our second instalment of West Africa’s best adventure travel destinations, we explore Ghana, a Land of sunshine and reputed for the friendliness of its people. Rich in history, and home to the Ashanti Kingdom, a once prosperous and powerful dynasty, this country is a great place to start of in Africa due to its ‘user-friendliness’ and offers a great deal of opportunities for the demanding traveller looking for the next best beach, the most succulent dish, the intense cultural encounter, or the fast paced adventure activity.

Ghana is on the Gulf of Guinea, the ‘under-belly’ of West Africa, facing south towards the Atlantic Ocean.In terms of geography, the country presents flat plains, low hills and a few rivers. The coastline is mostly a low, sandy shore backed by plains intersected by several rivers and streams while the northern part of the country features high hills and rolling plains. Southwest and south central Ghana is made up of a forested plateau region consisting of the Ashanti uplands and the Kwahu Plateau and the hilly Akuapim-Togo ranges are found along the country's eastern border. Ghana's highest point is Mount Afadjato which is 885 m (2,904 ft) and is found in the Akwapim-Togo Ranges.

For all of those who are in to medium intensity adventure travel or if you are looking for activities that are not solely for making your muscles sore, but are willing to combine it will other activities that will soothe your soul, this is the place to come. Hiking, mountain biking, surfing, whale watching, not to mention the overwhelming smells, bright colours, and entrancing music are some of the awe-inspiring experiences you can have in Ghana.

Why not go on a mountain biking excursion through a rural setting, stopping off at mud-hut dotted villages for a rest or to sample the local Jollof rice dish (tomato-flavoured rice to which meat or fish is added) for lunch? Or how about a more intense experience trekking up Mount Afadjato where you can spend the night in a homestay and enjoy a relaxing evening of music and good food (I’ve heard of this place where you can eat village grown mushrooms in a spicy tomato sauce with rice. Vegetarians, eat your... artichoke heart out).

For more information on how you can find yourself in these experiences, click here.

If you are looking for something different, look no further than the only tree-top canopy walk in Africa located in Kakum National Park, home to over three-hundred species of birds, unique monkeys and the highly endangered forest elephant and bongo antelope. The rope bridge suspended 100-110 feet off the forest floor yields an extraordinary sweep of nature from what feels like just below cloud level, a must-see if you’re not afraid of heights.

Down by the Ocean, there are plenty more opportunities for adventure. Ghanaians are natural ocean goers, maybe due to their culture of fishing, and this is reflected in the activities that are on offer. There is the possibility to rent a fishing boat in order to spend a whole day catching your lunch for the evening and learning the different traditional techniques that the locals use to sustain their livelihoods. You might even catch a glimpse of a whale poking its tail fins out of the water! Or if you prefer a more relaxing experience, there are plenty of opportunities to take a traditional canoe up one of the many tributaries and try your hand at fresh water fishing.

A great accommodation idea that offers these activities can be found here.

Ghana’s coast also offers some of the best waves in West Africa (you know where I am going with this), and therefore surfing and body-boarding are also on the ‘adventure menu’ for you to try and practice.

Busua beach, in the west, is one of the best locations for surfing in Ghana and is a wonderful mix of a traditional Ghanaian coastal village and a tourist destination, allowing you to get to know the people and culture of Ghana, meanwhile providing you with many entertainment options in a very relaxed atmosphere. Beginners and veterans alike are welcome to try their hands at the different sized swell found along the Busua stretch of coast.

To find out more about the surfing opportunities, click here.

Of course, as always when visiting a West African country, there is a richness of culture, history and biodiversity to discover, but you would need a life-time to make your way around the amazing things to see and do. The West Africa Discovery web portal has selected a variety of tours, accommodations and volunteer projects that not only give you the opportunity to experience West Africa to its full potential but also make sure that the tourism projects listed have policies that provide benefits to local communities in the area and that, through their activities, make sure that negative impacts on the local heritage are minimised.

For more information, email us at info@westafricadiscovery.co.uk or join us on facebook & twitter to keep up-to-date with our progress, and that of the West African sustainable tourism industry.

Adventure travel in West Africa – Part 1: Senegal

2010-07-30T11:38:00.011+01:00

Adventure travel has to be the most invigorating form of travel out there, combining the thrills of physical exercise and adrenaline rushes with the beauty of local scenery and the immersion in the destination. We all know of Australia as an adventure destination with the many possibilities to stimulate those rushes of adrenaline such as bungee jumping or skydiving, or Chile for its white water rafting and trekking possibilities, but what do we know about West Africa as an adventure destination? Not much I suspect. That is why I decided to explore, bycountry over a four part series’, the opportunities for a good old escapade in a few of the 16 countries of this little known part of the World.

For those of you who are in to exploration, you may well have heard of Scottish born Mungo Park who made it his life mission to go where no man had gone before on the African continent. He concentrated his efforts on the West African countries of Senegal, The Gambia and Mali, and was said to be the first Westerner to encounter the Niger River and set up residence in the fabled city of Timbuktu. Well, following in his footsteps, I am going to concentrate on a more modern timeline and will attempt to give you a breakdown of ‘adventure travel’ opportunities and cover the possibilities for the development of activities which reflect the adventure ethos and aim to cause less damage to the environment they operate in.

Let’s start in Senegal which is a diverse country in many ways. It has a variety of ethnicities and a climate that changes dramatically from North to South. This country has been nicknamed ‘Le pays de la Teranga’ (Teranga, in Wolof, can be approximately translated as ‘The art of hospitality’) due to the overwhelming thoughtfulness of its inhabitants and their willingness to share, even though most have nothing. The coast in the West, stretching 531km (330mi), is our starting point for our ‘adventure discovery’.

An Atlantic coastline means waves, and waves mean body-boarding or surfing! In the capital, Dakar, there are several surf camps that make it possible to ride on the longest swell window in the World. Not only do these camps provide you with expert knowledge of the areas surf spots, but they also aim to give employment to local people by training them in hospitality and surf instruction. They also boost the local economy by bringing tourists to the destination and encouraging them to live ‘local’. Check out this surf camp near the Island of N’Gor for an example of what you can expect.

If you fancy taking a break from the Ocean breeze and prefer discovering the hinterland of Senegal, bike tours are possible on which it is possible to stay in homestays and immerse yourself in the local life whilst appreciating the awe-inspiring, baobab dotted, landscapes. Visits to the Lac Rose (the pink lake) or the Lac de Guièr near the Sénégalo-Mauritanian border are a great way to discover the rural culture on Northern Senegal and appreciate the beauties of the semi-arid Sahel region. For more information contact us.

Moving down south to the Siné-Saloum, dotted with mangroves and small tropical-like islands, there are possibilities to go powerchuting to discover the splendours of scenery where land intertwines with the Ocean, or take a pirogue (traditional fishing boat) with a guide to go fishing in the maze of waterways which a variety of birds, butterflies and monkeys call their home. Obviously, you will need a place to rest, and there is no lack of accommodation in idyllic spots to recover from the day’s thrills and spills. Many an eco-lodge are available for your needs to be pampered, and other budget accommodation is also available (enquire with us to learn more). So why not kick back and relax in a traditional hammock with a glass (or bucket) of palm wine and listen to the sounds of nature. You might even catch sight of a mischievous monkey or two.

Moving to the complete opposite on the map, we find ourselves in the South-East of the country, also nicknamed Bassari Country after the mysterious tribe of the same name linked to the Dogon people in Mali. Here, lies the Senegalo-Guinean border dominated by the Fouta Djallon, a granite and sandstone formation with the highest elevation of 1,515m dominated by tropical-like forests and home to the headwaters of three major rivers, the Niger River, the Gambia River and the Senegal River. This is an ideal place to get your hiking boots out and take on a medium-hard trek up to the highest point, Mount Loura. Along the way you will encounter a number of species of monkeys including green colobus and patas, and even chimps are known to dwell in the depths of the jungle. At the foot of the Fouta Djallon, on the Senegal side, lies the sleepy eco-village of Dindéfélo which you could call your base, and is the location of one of the only two waterfalls in Senegal.

If you fancy a bit of exploration, you can retrace your steps to the Gambian border and cross over to some of the least visited parts of that region where you can find some hidden eco-lodges which have purposely been built for those in need of a getaway from mass tourism. To the South is Casamance, one of the most beautiful parts of Senegal but least touristy due to the lack of marketing and the occasional news about rebel activity. However, I have been there and take it from me, there is nothing to worry about, in fact it is probably the best place I have visited in my life.

When in Casamance there are plenty of adventure activities to partake in, although less organised. From mangrove exploration in canoes, scuba diving or snorkelling on the coast, beach hiking or mountain biking, there are plenty of options for those open enough to approach the locals for a bit of advice.

There are many other activities that can be found in Senegal to quench your thirst for adventure; however I would probably need another thousand words to describe the entirety of the possibilities, but needless to say that if the adventure travel industry was developed to a higher level, whilst taking into consideration the local communities and local heritage of course, then Senegal’s relief and different climates could open a number of doors for those seeking new locations and new alternative ways of getting that all important adrenaline rush.

Imagine kite surfing near the South’s deserted beaches or paragliding from the Fouta Djallon plateau, canoeing down the whole length of the Gambia River or hot air ballooning over the sand dunes in the North. Only imagination is the limit!

But until then, why not visit the West Africa Discovery website for more information on unique and exciting holiday ideas that will tickle your explorer glands or provide you with your next hit of adrenaline. Alternatively, email our dedicated team of West African Manatees who will be delighted to help you!

Discovering Gambia and Senegal independently

2010-07-24T15:26:00.008+01:00

Andrew, a traveller who has recently booked a responsible tourism holiday to Cameroon through the West Africa Discovery website, suggested that we post his story about his journey through Senegal and the Gambia in order to raise awareness to the rich experiences that can be had in West Africa. Of course,without hesitation, we agreed! So, without further ado, sit back with a cup of tea (or coffee, as you prefer) and enjoy the following recount of what seems like an unforgettable experience.

Every time I plan a trip abroad I weigh up the benefits of travelling as part of a group and going myself. Group travel certainly makes things easier, probably more secure, and doesn’t require so much planning.

Travelling entirely on your own can, of course, bring you into much closer contact with the people in the country you have chosen to visit, and every penny you spend ends up in the local economy. I have enjoyed both, many times, but when my partner Sheila and I decided to visit Senegal and The Gambia earlier this year, we decided that we would do this one ourselves.

Both Senegal and the Gambia have relatively well developed transport networks. In Senegal fleets of Peugeot estate cars connect major towns regularly, smaller destinations less often, making travel quick and trouble free. We rarely had to wait longer than half an hour for the seven seater ‘sept-places’ to fill up travelling between major towns, and it seemed that the seven seat rule was strictly enforced preventing overcrowding. For the price of all seven seats it would usually be possible to hire the whole car if extra comfort or a quick departure to a less popular destination was required. French, at least at basic survival level, is really essential to communicate with local drivers - they are not going to speak English. Because of the quite large number of French tourists who visit Senegal, individual travellers are not that unusual.

There are lots of high quality hotels in larger towns, as well as more basic options, and finding food in markets, shops or restaurants was never a problem - as long as you have enough French to ask for what you want and understand the price.In (English speaking) Gambia, transport is by minibus - much more cramped as extra bodies are crammed in - with much less frequent connections once the coast was left behind. Public transport did seem, however, more easy than some of the popular guidebooks suggested, not to mention one UK based tour operator who tried his best to suggest that individual travel would be a totally miserable experience.

Gambia has a huge variety of hotels and restaurants on the coast, including many hotels catering to western package tours, and finding good accommodation and good food is not a problem - a much more limited range of options exists inland, but we always managed to find somewhere reasonabe to sleep. Electricity in most inland towns is not constant, and most hotels will only run a generator for a limited number of hours. We met many friendly people, working hard to make a living from the small number of foreigners who venture away from the coastal resorts.

If time is more important than money, there are plenty of local taxi drivers and guides who can arrange transport. Many advertise on the web, or offer individual fares to any destination in thecountry through tourist agencies in the coastal resort. We took advantage of the services of Moses Coley (http://www.realgambiamoses.com/) who, along with his driver Sheriff, drove us from the coast to the Senegal border in the far East of the country, stopping along the way to see wildlife and birds. You can see some of my photos from the trip on his website.

Travelling with a guide has many advantages. Moses has a great knowledge of his country, and many friends and contacts throughout. He took a real pride in ensuring we enjoyed our trip, we told him where we wanted to go, and then on the way between these main destinations he took us to many out of the way places to see the birds and wildlife that were one of the main reasons for our visit to The Gambia. By arranging local guides from remote villages for a relatively small price we managed to make an impression on local people that the wildlife and wild environment around them did have a value, as well as making sure that local people did benefit from our visit. One young man who took us to the fields round his village (one of the best habitats for viewing birds, monkeys and baboons!) had never seen European visitors in his village before. Moses is an enterprising man, keen to develop eco-tourism as a way of benefiting his village. He has recently financed a local school, as well as arranging inovative cultural tourism opportunities, for example the opportunity to get married in a Gambian village ceremony (try 'googling' his name for more info on this!)

One of the things that stuck me most about both Senegal and The Gambia is the strength of Islam. More than once, our driver would stop at the side of the road, take out his prayer mat, and pray. Driving before sun-up was usually accompanied by Islamic music and prayer on the radio, before the driver changed over to local popular music as day broke. Every town had its mosque, many of them new. I maybe shouldn’t have been surprised by this, but I witnessed a mush greater level of religious devotion than I have even in countries such as Pakistan, Iran and the Middle East. Highlights of our trip were national parks in Senegal - Langue de Berberie and Djoudj near St Louis, and Nikolo Kobo in the East - and the Gambia - Aboko, the Bao Bolon wetland area around Tendaba Lodge, and the River Gambia National Park. We also enjoyed visiting Dakar and St Louis in Senegal, eating good food on the Gambian coast and visiting the small up-river towns in The Gambia.

I think Senegal and the Gambia must be amongst the easiest countries in Africa to visit as individual travellers. Both are relatively well developed, and have established tourist industries, although in both these are concentrated in specific areas and easy to leave behind if that is what you want. With a healthy dose of common sense both seemed secure enough, and in both it was easy to find help if long wait for the next, possibly non-existent, minibus just seemed too much! Why not discover them for yourselves?

To see what unique experiences you can have in Senegal, the Gambia and the rest of West Africa, why not have a browse through our selection of responsible and sustainable holiday ideas on our website. Or if you have a particular query, please contact us on info@westafricadiscovery.co.uk.

Ghana: home to the Black Stars, but also much more than that!

2010-07-02T17:09:00.012+01:00

After dispatching the USA in their last game of the World Cup, Ghana made history as being the fourth African team to reach the quarter final when they faced Uruguay tonight. Ghana has already done better than four years ago when they were knocked out in the last 16. It seemed that all of Africa celebrated Ghana's qualification for the quarter finals of the World Cup. And many hoped the Black Stars would beat Uruguay to become the first African team to qualify for a World Cup semi-final. Unfortunately, after an intense game and many heart stopping moments, Ghana lost on penalty shoot-outs but went home heroes to their own country who welcomed them with all the Ghanaian pride you could imagine.

Not only does Ghana have a world class team who represent a whole continent, but closer to home they also are one of the friendliest, most stable countries in West Africa with rich local heritage.

From the pristine sandy beaches in the south to the hilly and rainforest covered north, bordered by Togo to the east, Côte d’Ivoire to the West and Burkina Faso to the North, Ghana is truly a gateway to West Africa. And what a gateway it is! For the beginner to Africa, the traveller who wants to experience the ‘dark continent’ first-hand, the cautious tourist wanting to learn more about West Africa’s culture, this country is a great choice. Here are a few examples of the unique things you can do and see in the Black Stars home country.

For the avid historian

Ghana, unfortunately, is infamously known for being one of the main departure countries from which the slave traders filled their ships with ‘cargo’ to take them to the ‘New World’, and the remnants of this barbaric trade are still present. On cape coast near Accra, the capital, Elmina castle is the oldest European building in sub-Sahara Africa. According to records, thousands of captives passed through the dungeons of both castles to be shipped as commodities.

Museums are also numerous, and you will not be disappointed with the amount of choice. From the ‘National Museum of Ghana’, home to a varied collection of objects relating to the ethnography and culture of Ghana, to the ‘Dubois Memorial Centre for Pan African Culture’, a national historic monument in its own right documenting the life of the influential Du Bois family, passing by ‘Museum of Science and Technology’ displaying and preserving natural history specimens found in Ghana, you will need an entire lifetime to satisfy your curiosity.

Recently vestiges from an ancient civilisation were found in a remote part of the country which has questioned many theories that were put forward about the history of the regions people. To read the BBC article on the find, click here.

Or to learn about the possibilities to visit the country to learn about the history of slavery, click here.

For the budding naturalist

The vegetation of Ghana ranges from Evergreen forests and Savannah grasslands, to the lowlands to the highlands which boasts the highest point in the country, Mount Afadjato which is 885 metres high and found in the Volta region. The landscape is very suitable for both hiking and trekking which will allow you to get up-close to the wide variety of flora and fauna species.

For example, Tafi-Atome in the Volta region, is home to 300 endangered Mona and Pata Monkeys and is a traditional conservation area backed by statutory enforcement in co-operation with local communities. These monkeys are found in a remnant patch of forests, which has survived fire and human disturbance around the village.

Agumatsa wildlife sanctuary is another place of interest for those interested in wildlife. The area boasts Ghana’s highest waterfalls. The beauty of the falls is enhanced not only by the towering face of the gorge but most impressively by the several thousands of fruit bats clinging to its sides. At the base of the falls, in the surrounding forest, butterflies of various colours and other wild animals make the area significant for conservation. The falls also plays an important part in the cultural life of the communities around it. The people regard it as a fetish protecting them in all walks of life.

For a holiday idea that will take you to the sites mentioned above, click here.

For the culture enthusiast

Like the rest of West Africa, Ghana has a rich cultural heritage

which has been passed down from generation to generation for millennia, and its origins have been lost in the midst of time. However, being ever present gives the open-minded traveller a glimpse into the various rites, rituals, ceremonies and belief systems which make this country and its people ‘oh so special’.

One of the most important cultural remnants from a bygone era is the Ashanti stemming from a once prosperous Kingdom that ruled the region. There are certain days each year on the Ashanti calendar that are set aside for a celebration at the Royal Palace. This ceremony is called Akwasidae.

During the celebration, the King is seated under a spectacular umbrella of colourful, draped cloth and is adorned in vivid cloth and massive gold jewellery which is centuries old (the Ashanti gold jewellery and masks are considered masterpieces of African art). This traditional ceremony takes place in one of the last African Kingdoms to have kept its ancient rituals alive.

But Ghana is also known for its overwhelming hospitality, and there will be no lack of people who will offer to show you their home, offer you meals or just to have a friendly chat. In the remote villages of the Volta region, you can experience the culture first hand by learning how to cook the various traditional meals, discovering the history of weaving in this area and trying your hands on the weaving process, or visiting some farms in the local communities to learn how to use local farming tools.

There is no lack of educational opportunities in Ghana, and you will surely learn a thing or two from this holiday idea.

For the adventure fiend

For the adrenaline junkie, the exercise addict or for the simple traveller looking for a bit of fun, Ghana offers the possibility to partake in an array of activities including hiking, mountain biking, surfing, canoeing, canopy walking, fishing, and many more.

Let’s take example on the possibilities of surfing. Ghana’s south coast is perfect for those wanting to learn how to ride waves. Constant warm water, no crowds and perfect waves (that’s right, no fighting for waves and no wetsuits) make Ghana’s coasts a great location for beginners and intermediate surfers. To learn more about the surfing possibilities, click here.

Sticking to the water theme, the marshes created by the Volta River, create a rarely visited environment which allows for excellent canoeing where you can observe an exotic collection of birds and a baobab grove.

Or if you fancy something different, in Kakum National Park you can find the only rainforest canopy walk experience in the whole of Africa. Suspended 100 feet above the ground, this offers you what is truly a bird's eye view of the rainforest. At this height, you don't have to be an expert to identify the colourful patterns of tropical birds as they glide through the forest below you.

Unfortunately I could not include all the amazing things available to do and see in Ghana, but I am sure that through the above description you have become curious to know more. So do not hesitate to get in touch with us at info@westafricadiscovery.co.uk with any queries about this beautiful country or any of the other 15 West African countries. Or you can visit our website here to discover all the other unique and awe-inspiring holiday ideas available in one of the most undiscovered parts of the World.

Responsible Cruising in West Africa

2010-06-22T10:54:00.007+01:00

Cruise tourism is a billion pound industry focusing on offering quality services to their guests whilst visiting exotic locations with beautiful sceneries. A recent report from the Cruise Lines International Association (CLIA) estimated that cruise tourism in Europe alone generates goods and services worth more than €32bn and provides over 311,512 jobs.

However, over the past few years, this industry has been increasingly criticised for its irresponsible practises and the negative effects that the itinerant boats have on the natural heritage they ‘cruise’ through. Even though the cruise industry has made a significant effort to reduce their negative impact on the environment, according to a presentation I witnessed by Jamie Sweeting, Vice President of Environmental Stewardship and Global Chief Environmental Officer for Royal Caribbean Cruises Ltd, it does not seem that they have concrete policies to provide benefits for local communities in destinations, when I asked the question.

Over the past few weeks, a number of articles have appeared in the digital press about the increasing move of cruise companies towards less explored shores, diversifying their ports of call and using alternative itineraries to break from the norm. Some of these destinations found in West Africa, such as Senegal, Sierra Leone and Ghana are familiar to us at West Africa Discovery.

Let’s take an example of responsible tourism cruising in West Africa to explain how responsible tourism practises can be used to benefit local communities in destinations whilst respecting the local heritage and at the same time provide a positive and unique experience for the tourists participating.

In Senegal, on the west coast of West Africa, a small ship offers its passengers an unforgettable cruising experience along the Senegal River. The trip begins in Dakar where the tourist will be able to experience the vibrant and colourful scenery of a West African capital from which an overland journey will be undertaken to the Jazz Capital of West Africa, Saint Louis. From there, the trip diverts inland to a point where the 6 day cruise will begin. A beautifully refurbished Cruiser, which has been doing this journey for 50 years, will be waiting. Through this cruise, the passenger will learn about Wolof, Tukolor and Moore cultures and will witness the magnificence of the local natural heritage in the Parc Oiseau de Djoudj , the world’s third most important breeding grounds for migrating birds. Each day there will be a stop off in villages or visits old French Forts, gardens in the desert, or the birding reserve. Throughout the trip the passenger will be given a thorough history of the region both colonial and tribal.

“How may this cruise differ from the others? How does it make a difference?” you may ask. Well, Senegal is a great example of modern vibrant, open and progressing West Africa. Tourism has helped fuel their boom but, as with its neighbour The Gambia, it has often been package based holidays around the stunning coast. This type of mass tourism gives very little positive cultural interaction.

This trip however aims to show the participant modern Senegal, by spending some time in Dakar, and then to learn about the historic and cultural background in Saint Louis, followed by a cruise through some of the regions very different cultures. The Cruiser itself has been making the journey from Saint Louis to Podor for over 50 years. In the last decade it was fully refurbished and is now back in action providing an important and much loved communication link along this stretch of the Senegal River. Different communities who live along the river will be visited and they all benefit greatly from their links with the cruiser.

The cruiser is run by a local Senegalese company based in Saint Louis and has long established links with the communities visited on the cruise.

Furthermore, the cruise passes through the world’s third most important breeding grounds for migrating birds thus raising awareness towards the importance of natural conservation to show that this location, used for millennia by various species of birds, is extremely important for the survival of our planets feathery friends.

As you may have gathered, not only does this type of tourism offer the tourist a first-hand insight into the local heritage of a destination visited, thus offering an added value to what has become, from my point of view, a bland industry, but it also aims to give back to the local communities who live along the itinerary. In a region such as West Africa, which is fragile in terms of being easily influenced from outside sources, responsible tourism can offer much needed benefits to local communities as well as reducing the negative effects that tourism can have on local natural, cultural and social heritages.

For more information on the responsible cruising experience mentioned above, click here.

To discover more responsible tourism holiday ideas in West Africa, click here.

For more information, don’t hesitate to contact us by emailing info@westafricadiscovery.co.uk.

Good Luck Cameroon, Côte d’Ivoire, Ghana and Nigeria!

2010-06-10T13:09:00.004+01:00

Out of the six African teams in the World Cup this summer, four are from West Africa. It is the first time that the World Cup has been held on the African continent, and it would be a momentous occasion for its people and African football if one these teams could go all the way. West Africa is a dominant force in African football and regularly produces stars that play for top European clubs. We took a look at the four teams from West Africa and their chances of success in this World Cup.

Cameroon

Also know as the Indomitable Lions, a tribute to their habit of grinding out results, Cameroon have long been flag bearers for Africa on the world stage since their first world cup in 1982.

Cyprian, one of our tour operators in Cameroon feels confident;

“I am almost sure that Cameroon can get to the second round at the world cup, but we still need discipline in the team to produce good results.

Our super star Samuel Eto’o has had some arguments with the management. If this is resolved then he will be explosive at the world cup and his performance could help Cameroon to the quarter finals at least. That is my forecast, anyway, let’s wait and see!”

With a group including the Netherlands, Denmark and Japan it will be challenging, but not impossible. They must find a way of getting the best out of Samuel Eto'o to progress.

Côte d’Ivoire

In Côte d’Ivoire everyone is wearing orange – the colour of the strip of their national team, The Elephants. Hopes have been dampened by the fact there’ll be no Didier Drogba, but they're managed by Sven-Goran Eriksson who may have a trick up his sleeve (some England fans may disagree!).

I read that one hundred Côte d’Ivoire fans are heading to South Africa on an all-expenses paid trip to watch their team. The country's national supporters club, the National Elephants Supporters Committee, drew the 100 names from their membership. Anyone with a $4 membership was included in the draw, touted as a way to thank ordinary fans who would never be able to afford the trip to the World Cup. A local tour operator is offering a similar trip for about $4,000. Whilst this is a nice gesture and will be a great trip for these fans, it highlighted to me how unattainable it is for a lot of local fans to attend the World Cup.

Côte d’Ivoire seems to be attracted to the ‘group of death’ with the best teams in major tournaments. This time round is no different with a group including Brazil, Portugal and North Korea. There will be a chance for the talented Aruna Dindane and Salomon Kalou to make their mark, and the side has strength in holding midfielder Yaya Touré. Sven Goran-Eriksson needs to improve the underachievement of a team beaten by Algeria in the quarter finals of the Africa Cup of Nations.

Ghana

The Black Stars’ appearance at the World Cup in 2006 finally brought international recognition to a team that has long been one of the greats of Africa but somehow never qualified for the big event. They did well in the last finals in Germany with an adventurous style that won them many fans, but ending up losing to Brazil in the second round with key players missing.

Manuel our local expert in Accra says;

“We have hopes Ghana will do well in the Group stage to progress. 2006 was Ghana’s first time at the World Cup and we finished the group stage second. So I am expecting the same this time around!”

Their group includes Australia, Serbia, and Germany. Kevin Prince-Boateng's decision to play for his parents' country of origin means he could face his brother, Jerome, who has been selected by Germany where they were born. Michael Essien is injured so there is little star quality but their powerful style could be troublesome to other teams in their group.

Nigeria

This will be the Super Eagles fourth appearance in the World Cup. Meetings with Ghana in the Africa Cup of Nations have thrown up some epic games, although the Nigerians have lost the last two in the latter stages of recent tournaments. A meeting in the quarter final would be an epic encounter and sure to split the local South African support.

Nigeria will face Argentina, Greece and South Korea in their group. They have suffered a blow with Chelsea midfielder Mikel John Obi ruled out through injury, but with a squad largely drawn from top clubs it should be a confident team. Nigeria will be looking to their gifted attackers Obafemi Martins and Yakubu for goals.

Group B: Argentina/Nigeria/South Korea/Greece

Group D: Germany/Australia/Serbia/Ghana

Group E: Netherlands/Denmark/Japan/Cameroon

Group G: Brazil/North Korea/Côte d'Ivoire/Portugal

Visit the Fifa website for full group listings and fixtures.

The World Cup: Local enthusiasm! Local benefits?

2010-06-05T16:46:00.005+01:00

With just over a week to go, millions of people around the world will be watching their team in South Africa competing for the ultimate prize in football, the World Cup. But for many, particularly in Africa, this world cup has taken on greater significance. When South Africa was chosen to host the 2010 World Cup, it was hailed as a chance to 'give something back' to Africa. However, will the biggest event on Earth benefit some of the planet's poorest people?

The event could provide many benefits to local communities through local trade. However, according to an article in The Independent, informal traders who are a crucial part of African economy have been banned from around the 10 stadiums, reducing their chances to gain from the increased tourism. Creating more jobs for local people is also in question. The future of a project to set up public bus transport is in doubt because the government is cautious about standing up to South Africa's powerful minibus-taxi industry.

There are also question marks over Fifa's internet ticketing system that has left most of the continent unable to buy seats. Fifa kept ticket sales online until 15 April when poor sales forced them to open ticketing booths in the host country. Even though there will be a record six African teams in the finals; South Africa, Ghana, Côte d’Ivoire, Cameroon, Nigeria and Algeria, only 11,000 African fans outside South Africa have purchased tickets. Should there have been more effort to include the fans of these countries?

As well as low ticket sales, especially in the northern hemisphere, tourism visitor figures for the World Cup have been revised down to 200,000 – about the same number of people that visit South Africa during an average summer season from November to February. Local airlines and hotels have cut prices for the coming month, and local businesses are worried about the lack of financial benefit the event will bring.

However, there is some good news. Fifa president Sepp Blatter, in an interview, said that the event is about "giving back to Africa what the continent has given world football through its players.” During a press conference, the organisation pointed to the "centres for hope" - 20 football academies that it will build after the cup. These could provide opportunities to African youth to develop themselves not only in football, but also through education. Examples of how successful these academies can be are The Craig Bellamy Foundation set to open this September in Sierra Leone, and the Right to Dream Academy in Ghana.

Elsewhere, organisations such as Oxfam are trying to use this world Cup and football to connect people around the world. Their new campaign calls on fans to upload a video of their tricks to the website, www.dontdropaid.org. The campaign calls on governments not to drop the ball on overseas aid, which helps to pay for kids to go to school and for medicines and bed-nets that save the lives of millions of people who would otherwise die from HIV or malaria.

Charles Bambara, a former player in the Burkina Faso premier league who works for Oxfam in West Africa, said: “Across the continent, from Algeria to Zambia, football brings a massive ray of hope to people’s lives. We want to tap into all of that energy to say: don’t drop the ball, don’t lose sight of the goal, which is to end poverty and make life better for the world’s poorest people.”

However, despite the event being marred by controversy, one thing is for sure, this event will unite Africans from all over the continent during the World Cup. Voice of America spoke to Ben Owusu from the Ghanaian community in South Africa. He says that Africans will be uniting behind an entire continent;

“We all are coming together this time around to support that particular African team that is playing that day. To come together is the only way we are going to come close to winning the Cup. Whatever African team does well, it will be a victory for the whole of Africa. This is Africa’s World Cup.”

“Brazil, Italy, England and Germany and all those other fancy teams must realize when they land here in South Africa that they are not only playing single African countries," he said. "They must know that they are playing against an entire continent, with its population of one billion firmly behind it … the Cup should remain in Africa.”

This is going to be a very exciting month for the players and fans from the four West African nations playing in the tournament. We will update you with information on the Cameroon, Côte d’Ivoire, Ghana and Nigeria teams over the next week for the build up to the big event. For more information on West Africa, or to discover how you can be a part of the World Cup by visiting the continent yourself, visit West Africa Discovery.

Surf tourism in West Africa: a Working Model for Responsible Tourism.

2010-05-27T11:17:00.002+01:00

Sun, sea, waves, tanned bodies and relaxed attitudes are all part of the surfing lifestyle, but it has also come to my attention that tourism can be a part of the ‘gnarly’ world of riding waves.

Whilst researching alternative tourism activities in West Africa, I came across a great number of surf shops, surf camps and surf tours along the coastal areas in countries such as Senegal, Liberia and Ghana. These are little known projects, and not only take the tourist to some beautiful beaches, but also have a low environmental impact and provide economic and development opportunities to the local communities through empowerment initiatives.

I became interested in how the surf tourism model could be considered as an alternative, unique and fulfilling experience for those seeking to discover the local heritage of a destination whilst being sure that the local communities will benefit directly from their presence on the ground.

Let me set the scene:

“After first impressions, the destinations look like paradise on earth. White pristine beaches bordered by palm trees, rolling green hills dominated by lush untouched rainforest, the silence only disturbed by the birds calling after one-another and the sound of the waves lapping against the shore, not to forget the sea at a constant warm temperature. As you look deeper into the local area, you will find friendly local communities, usually fishermen, who work hard to survive in the poverty stricken rural areas, children playing football on the beach who invite you to kick the ball about, a family having lunch outside on the porch who motion for you to come and taste a local dish, and everyone with smiling faces, showing that you don’t need much to be happy. You feel a sense of being part of the bigger picture, a sense of freedom, devoid of materialism and barriers, a feeling of, at last, finding the true sense of the word ‘living’.

Going back to your accommodation near the local surf shop, you hear the crash of the waves and feel an overwhelming need to be on a board, waiting for the swell so that you can get up and slide down the wall of water, trying to keep your balance but falling into the clear blue, warm water. You emerge into a soft breeze, dust yourself off and try again until you get it just right.”

Jesper, owner of a surf camp in Senegal adds to this: “Surfing in west Africa is something special. The sport has exploded the last 10 years, and therefore everyone is surfing. That brings many problems to all the famous surf spots around the world. In surfing jargon it's called localism. The people that live at the surf spot do not like that the tourists come and surf at "their spot". This leads to fights, negative atmosphere in the water and so on.”

He continues: “Senegal is very different, the locals are very happy for tourists to come. They welcome people in the water, talk and guide them. You will not see this in many places on the planet. Senegal doesn't have many ‘surf tourists’, and surfers who come to Senegal usually donate boards, wet suits, clothes and more. So it’s something special to surf here. This is one of the main reasons I moved here.”

Tempting hey? Well, not only are there opportunities to experience the above fantasy first-hand, but also you will be making a contribution to the sustainable development of the local community in the destination.

The surf shops in West Africa strive to train members of the local community to become surf instructors, therefore empowering them to earn a living for themselves and their family. Surf tourism usually being small-scale projects bring small groups of tourists to the area thus reducing the possible negative effects of tourism and nurtures the rise of local entrepreneurship to cater for the arriving guests. This, subsequently, boosts the local economy. Furthermore, all the produce used to cater for the guests are locally sourced, as well as the labourers who maintain the premises.

Jesper explains: “surf tourism provides many jobs for the locals. I employ six locals at the camp plus two more in the busy season. There is also more business for everyone living around the surf project. I think that is the main reason for the good atmosphere here.”

In terms of raising awareness towards the local heritage, it is needless to say that through involving the local community in the tourism project, the guest will experience the cultural aspect of the locality, by walking around the area and not being afraid to start chatting to an elder, the historical setting of the area will come into focus, and activities such as cycling, hiking or canoeing to areas where natural heritage is present will be a learning experience for anyone not used to these settings.

Most importantly, as a result of the increased interest to the local heritage, the local community will surely be inspired to protect it, not only because of a renewed sense of pride towards what they have always considered as ‘normal’ but also because of the economic opportunities that can be felt by conserving it and not destroying it.

Peter, founder of a surf shop in Ghana gives his opinion: "I feel that the development in of surfing in West Africa provides a somewhat unique opportunity to put forth a surfing development model that is truly responsible and built by locals. In the past, and in many places around the world, the surf infrastructure has followed a development model that is exploitative, although this exploitation is usually not intentional and there are good people involved. What has happened around the world is that foreigners stumble across a place in a developing country that eventually becomes a surf destination and by the time the locals have any idea about surfing or realize its potential as a business it is too late for them to get into the game. This results in a bunch of foreign owned surf businesses with very few opportunities for local ownership or locals people securing high end, well paying surfing related jobs. There is an opportunity to develop the countries of West Africa into surf destinations (the waves are there!) with an idea of local ownership or at least local/foreign collaborations in mind. This would provide a new, responsible way of doing things that respects the idea that local people have first rights to benefit from their local resources, which in this case are their beaches and some killer surf spots."

He continues objectively: "Training locals to compete with foreigners in the surfing business (surf shops, surf tours, surf camps and lessons) is a daunting task as cultural differences on how we communicate loom large. Lots of training is required for locals to understand what comes naturally to foreigners with regards to knowing what a surf tourist expects and wants and how to meet those needs."

Surf tourism, if managed properly of course, could be used as a working model to show how tourism can be used as a tool to alleviate poverty in local communities in destinations by boosting local economies, providing entrepreneurship opportunities, empowering members of the community and sourcing products and labour locally. It can be a means to raise awareness towards wealth of local cultural, historical and natural heritage not only to the visitor, but also to the local communities.

Why not see for yourselves how surf camps are set up, by checking out this example in Ghana.

Or if you desire to learn more about other projects out there, email us at info@westafricadiscovery.co.uk.

Have you ever wanted to be the member of a tribe?

2010-05-11T13:29:00.006+01:00

Ever wanted to be part of a tribe? Or just like the idea of chilling on a beach, going snorkelling, catching some fish for the evenings dinner, or just getting your hands dirty in some community development work... Well, for all those of you who have the 'outdoors instinct', the need to get away, or the want to experience something different and make a difference along the way, here is what you have been waiting for; a new community-based cultural exchange tourism project based in Sierra Leone, West Africa, courtesy of the award-winning Tribewanted team.

The Tribewanted team have proven that this kind of project can work well for both those wanting to be part of a like-minded global community of over 10,000 members and the community in the chosen destination where members can visit and take part in the everyday life. This pioneering project started off in Fiji, in 2006, and since has gained recognition as an excellent model for sustainable community development through cultural exchange programmes using Responsible Tourism practises as a basic doctrine.

The Tribewanted Sierra Leone project has launched today, and will welcome the first tribe members in October this year. For your reference, we have added a description of the project on the West Africa Discovery web portal to show you what it is all about.

Ben Keene, the co-founder of Tribewanted, explains: "Tribewanted on Vorovoro in Fiji has become a way of life for visiting members and the local community. People find it very hard to leave - they feel like they’ve come home. It’s been clear for a while we should try and take the model elsewhere.”

“Tribewanted Sierra Leone aims to do this and more. When you take part in the project you’re not sacrificing your hard earned time-out for an intense volunteer programme nor are you replacing a much-needed beach holiday. You can sunbath, build, swim, cook, canoe up river, trek, fish, play beach football, share skills, teach, drum round bonfires, and eat great seafood. You’re living alongside a local community whilst connecting with a global network of like-minded people.”

At West Africa Discovery, we are thrilled to have listed them on our Responsible and Sustainable Tourism listings, as we feel that tourism can be a tool to develop local communities in a sustainable way, raise awareness towards the rich local cultures in the destination, and change the image of a country which is generally known for the wrong reasons. Tribewanted Sierra Leone aims to do just that, and we think that it will have a positive impact on all those involved.

To learn more about the Tribewanted project, click here.

For more information, please email us at info@westafricadiscovery.co.uk.

West Africa Discovery partners with the award-winning Tribewanted project, in Sierra Leone!

2010-05-11T10:41:00.008+01:00

The Tribewanted adventure started in 2006 on a small island in Fiji called Vorovoro and on an online community on the internet. Soon after, their success was felt not only on a local level for the members of the Fijian islands community but also on a global level by more than 10,000 on-line tribe members worldwide.

The project got a contract with BBC2 to film a five part series called ‘Paradise or Bust’ about the development of the community on the island, Ben Keene (the co-founder of Tribewanted) released a book about the experience of setting up such an ambitious project, and the Tribewanted.com team won a prestigious award for being ‘the best-social networking website’ beating the likes of Myspace, not to mention the glowing reviews from national and international media.

However, the most important part of this project was the benefits felt by the local community on Vorovoro through community development projects and sustainable living projects, the cultural-exchange opportunities experienced by the on-line and on-island tribe members and the unique adventurous experience bringing like-minded people together for an unforgettable journey.

Three and half years after the start of Tribewanted, a new project has been developed, and this time it will be located on the West Coast of Africa, in Sierra Leone!

In October 2010, a new group of visitors will arrive on Sierra Leone’s John Obey Beach, 20 miles south of the capital, Freetown, and begin to build a new life alongside the local fishing community.

Tribewanted Sierra Leone has formed a partnership with the government, landowners and the local John Obey community in Sierra Leone to create an eco village community over the coming years to support sustainable development in the area.

For the visiting tribe members it will be a unique opportunity to experience a peaceful, beautiful and vibrant country seeking a new beginning a decade after being ravaged by civil war.

Ben, co-founder, said about the project: “Tribewanted on Vorovoro in Fiji has become a way of life for visiting members and the local community. People find it very hard to leave - they feel like they’ve come home. It’s been clear for a while we should try and take the model elsewhere.”

Tribewanted Sierra Leone is a local organisation and its non profit partner, Shine On Sierra Leone - www.shineonsierraleone.org, has been working in the region successfully for five years, sponsoring 6 schools and computer centres around the country as well as providing microfinance to over 5,700 women across the country.

Filippo Bozotti, producer of VH1 documentary Bling, which took several hip hop stars to Sierra Leone to show them the reality of the diamond trade, has teamed up with Ben Keene, founder of Tribewanted to start this new project.

Their third partner, Sierra Leonean Michel Sho-Sawyer, confirms that all profits generated from Tribewanted Sierra Leone will be re-invested in the local John Obey community, in education and microfinance through Shine On Sierra Leone.

Tribe members will have the opportunity of joining in with the development of the new village alongside the local team and community. The project will be pioneering a new building technique called ‘Superadobe” developed at Cal Earth, www.calearth.org, a technique that uses only local earth and material.

West Africa Discovery (www.westafricadiscovery.co.uk) has been in talks with Tribewanted co-founder Ben Keene about the development and marketing of the project, and will act as an information portal for tribe members looking to find out what other sustainable and responsible tourism projects are available in surrounding countries.

The West Africa Discovery web portal is a reference point with expert knowledge of the west African region and is in the process of creating an extensive database of tourism projects which concentrate on offering unique experiences to the traveller whilst benefiting the local communities in the destinations they visit.

Thomas Armitt, founder of West Africa Discovery, comments: “We are excited to be part of such a great project. We really feel that tourism can be a tool to develop local communities in a sustainable way, raise awareness towards the rich local cultures in the destination, and change the image of a country which is generally known for the wrong reasons. Tribewanted Sierra Leone aims to do just that, and I think that it will have a positive impact on all those involved. ”

To learn more about the Tribewanted project, click here.

For more information, please email us at info@westafricadiscovery.co.uk.

Overland travel to West Africa - the possibilities are endless

2010-05-03T08:49:00.010+01:00

Since the recent news touching on the chaos that the Icelandic Eyjafjallajokull volcano caused for tens of thousands of air travellers, I decided to look at the possibility of travelling overland to West Africa. It may take much longer, however it also could cost about the same as a flight, be much more rewarding, allow you to explore different elements of African culture along the way and be more environmentally friendly when it comes to your carbon footprint. After all, according to a Chinese proverb, “The journey is the reward.” Overland travel veteran, David Hatter, explains:

"Overlanding through West Africa will allow you to meet many people unaccustomed to seeing travellers, and it is in their nature to offer you their hospitality. You will witness a way of life that has unchanged for centuries, yet one that is rapidly changing as the world around them is developing fast. Local markets scenes, village festivals, and marriage ceremonies will help you understand the cultures of West Africa in a way that the media can only hint at."

Let’s take an example of Sierra Leone as a destination. The Itinerary is simple, and believe it or not, it is not dangerous either. A few people have even cycled the same trail that I will suggest.

Starting from the UK, you would most likely go through France and Spain, then head over the Gibraltar Straight to Morocco for a pit stop. In Morocco, you could relax in a Kasbah in one of the four Imperial cities of Rabat, Meknes, Fez, or Marrakesh. The hustle and bustle of Djemma-El Fna or the tanning pits in Fez will offer a great introduction to the “assault on the senses” that is North Africa, and experience the first signs of African hospitality over a cup of traditional tea and a Narguilé (traditional bubbly pipe with aromatic tobacco).

Continuing on, you will then head in-land to the Atlas Mountains, where the climate changes considerably as the altitudes get higher, with fantastic opportunites for hiking in the famous Todra, Ziz, and Dades Gorge, and have you first glimpse of the majestic Sahara desert.

"The Erg’s around Merzouga and Zagora are not to be missed. Picture postcard sand dune ranges roll for as far as the eye can see and suggest but a small hint as to the vastness of the Sahara desert which stretches out to the east as far as Sudan, with ample opportunity for camel trekking and 4x4 exploration." notes David.

Back to the coast, you will follow the Atlantic Ocean to the Western Sahara, considered as one of the most sparsely populated areas in the World, and in majority composed of desert flatlands. You will no-doubt encounter Tuareg herders on their way to a hidden Oasis or even one or two of the friendly folk that Michael Palin met on his way to Senegal in his ‘Sahara’ series. The true remoteness of the Western Sahara is really appreciated as you bushcamp on the coastline with unspoilt views of the night sky above as the moon shimmers off the hulks of abandoned ships lost long ago to the Atlantic ocean.

Next stop, Mauritania, a transition country between Arabic North Africa and Black Sub-Saharan Africa, largely populated by Berbers and Moors, this country is where you will come face-to-face with ‘true Islam’ and learn about the hospitality of those who practice this misunderstood religion.

David describes some of the wonders of Mauritania: "Witness what many people say is the longest train in the world as it carries iron ore from the mines at Zouarat to the coastal town of Nouadibou, explore the ancient and seventh holiest Islamic city of Chinguetti whose libraries reveal all kinds of clues as to its famous and glorious past, while the beautiful Oasis’ at Terjit and Ouadane allow for some well earned R&R from desert travel."

After staying in a Berber camp overnight, you will head over the Senegalo-Mauritanian border to a busy ‘market town’ called Diama, a hub for all trade coming from North Africa to West Africa. In Senegal, there are loads to do and see. Stop off at the ‘Lac de Guier’ where the desert meets the Savannah, visit St. Louis, the Jazz Capital of West Africa and a wonderful opportunity to watch the fishermen bring in their catch in their elaborately painted boats, go bird-watching in ‘le Parc du Djoudj’ (migratory pit-stop for thousands of birds), get lost in the vibrant sounds and colours of Dakar, explore the natural waterways on a Pirogue (traditional canoe) in the Siné-Saloum Delta, and much more.

From Sénégal, head over the border to The Gambia, home of the Kora instrument, first choice for the traditional musician caste of the region, the ‘Griots’. After a night or two in an eco-retreat on the Atlantic coast, head up the Gambia River for some fishing and experience nature at its best, untouched.

Leaving the ‘Smiling Coast’ behind, cross the border to southern Sénégal, also known as Casamance, where you will notice a huge difference from its northern counterpart. Tropical climate, animistic belief systems and road-sides dotted with Mango trees are some of them. From here, head east along less travelled roads to South-Eastern Sénégal home to the Bedick and Bassari tribes who practice Animism.

A new day, a new border! This time it’s the turn of Guinea-Bissau to welcome you. Once a Portuguese colony, this country is dotted with remnants of old-style colonial towns such as Boloma, former capital of Portuguese Guinea before the capital was moved to Bissau in the 40's. The Atlantic Ocean, which you have followed but not always seen, re-appears like a long lost friend, and this time welcoming you into a paradise like environment known as the Bijagos Islands, beautiful and untouched tropical Islands surrounded by turquoise seas, inhabited by friendly and hospitable tribes. Here you will have the chance to participate in the Bijagos masked carnival, a little known yet colourful and awe-inspiring cultural festival.

Here you will be able to relax for a few days on a Hammock, only disturbed by the sound of birds singing and waves lapping against the beach. After a well deserved rest, you will be back on the adventure trail to cross the last country before arriving at your destination.

Guinea is a tropical, French-speaking country, famous for its Jazz and Latino style music. It is also home to the Fouta Djalon, a beautiful area of waterfalls, mountains, and small villages… many say this area is the highlight of Guinea. After witnessing such beautiful natural scenery, you will arrive in Sierra Leone, and your final destination, Freetown.

Freetown is a coastal town which is surrounded by beautiful scenery. To the East you will find lush tropical hills rolling down to meet you, and to the West beautiful beaches made famous by the 80’s bounty commercial ‘a taste of paradise’. The coast is dotted with Islands, some of which have shacks where you can spend a few relaxing days snorkelling, sun-bathing, swimming and indulging in some of the best fish and seafood in the world.

For this particular journey of a life-time, you would obviously need an adapted vehicle. There are some companies that already do this kind of trip, and we are currently in the process of talking to them. For those of you who do not like flying, are worried about getting stranded at an airport due to unforeseen natural occurrences, or just plainly think that the journey is more important than the destination, then this could be the answer to your prayers.

West Africa is perfectly placed with respects to Europe in order to experience a multitude of different cultures, historical sites and natural habitats of Africa when journeying to your destination.

For more information on West Africa, Sustainable and Responsible Tourism or just if you would like to chat about your experiences in West Africa, don’t hesitate to contact us at info@westafricadiscovery.co.uk.

You can also join us on Twitter or Facebook, where you will be updated on West Africa news and newly listed responsible tourism tours. We look forward to welcoming you!

Is education the key to reducing ‘irresponsible' tourism?

2010-04-17T18:35:00.010+01:00

Having read a recent article in the Associated Press about the lack of knowledge that travellers between 18 to 30 have about the World, I asked myself: is this ‘responsible’? Shouldn’t they know about the destinations they are going to visit? In my view, education before departure nurtures a sense of respect and responsibility towards a countries people and heritage and can have a substantial effect on minimising the negative effects of tourism.

There are many reasons why young people want to travel; to escape from their daily routine, flee from their household to acquire independence or to take a break to decide whether they want to go to university or to work; but do they consider their impact on local populations in destinations? I am sure a lot of them do, but there are also a lot who definitely don’t.

I would like to illustrate a simple example of ‘irresponsible tourism’ from when I was in Banjul, the Gambia. I remember, whilst travelling through the country from Northern Senegal to Casamance in the South, being at a beach bar on the tourist stretch near Banjul and hearing a group of young British people shouting abuse at the waiters in a very derogatory way. This really offended me and also made me embarrassed of being of the same nationality as these ‘irresponsible tourists’.

The negative impacts of tourism are very present and are much easier to quantify than the positive ones due to the sheer number of cases and the rapidity of negative influence, however, the positive effects of tourism are very possible. As a result of the increased focus on ethical consumerism, specifically that of sustainable and responsible tourism, more and more stories are surfacing on the benefits tourism can have on local communities in impoverished rural areas of the world, if managed efficiently.

For example, in the Gambia, a movement of sustainable and responsible tourism projects has been increasing for the past 10 years and, as a result, an organisation called the Association of Small Scale Enterprises in Tourism (ASSET – Gambia) has been created to efficiently manage a network of community-based tourism activities which allows the money spent by the tourist to be distributed amongst the local communities in the area. Benefits such as a boosted local economy, sustainable community development schemes, environmental protection initiatives, empowerment of local individuals, entrepreneurship opportunities, cultural pride and historical preservation, amongst others, are starting to be felt by the local communities in the areas operated in such as Kartong and Gunjur.

The International Centre for Responsible Tourism (ICRT) has been successful over the past 10 years in creating a buzz around the term ‘Responsible Tourism’. They have organised events such as the Cape Town (2002), Kerala (2008) and Belize (2009) International Responsible Tourism Conferences which resulted in the drafting of declarations outlining policies and guidelines for the development and management of Responsible Tourism in destinations. These events have inspired many governments around the world to change their tourism policies to implement more ‘responsible and sustainable’ practices.

Now, slowly but surely, tourism practices which not only focus on providing an unforgettable and unique experiences for tourists, but also emphasise on maximising benefits for local communities and environments whilst minimising the negative effects of tourism, are being implemented by tour operators and other tourism projects all around the world. The best part about this is that most of these are small to medium and locally based companies who have a link to the local communities in the destination, therefore focussing on a solely locally produced product, developed by, managed by and involving local people.

Obviously, there are stories of ‘green-washing’ and ‘false-advertising’ using the ethical terminology to attract tourists, however there are also those genuine projects that do work towards these positive outcomes.

For these positive outcomes to be felt, not only do travellers who decide to undertake a ‘journey of a lifetime’ need to consider reading up more on the destinations they plan to visit, but government bodies, tourism professionals, local organisations and communities also need to realise that tourism can be much more beneficial to their country if managed in an efficient and sustainable way. Not only would sustained local economies be created in communities in rural areas, providing these with sustainable development opportunities, but they would also attract more tourists thanks to unique experiences coupled with the promise of an ethically managed holiday.

For more information on the ‘Responsible Tourism’ concept and suggested practices, click here.

You can also contact us at info@westafricadiscovery.co.uk

West Africa festivals: move aside Glastonbury!

2010-04-07T17:06:00.004+01:00

Music has always been part of the commonly shared culture found in the geographical region of west Africa, and the region has produced, in my view, some of the most talented and influential artists of music history. For millennia, the likes of the Jembe, Kora and Balafon musical instruments have influenced much of the music that we hear today on our radios.

For example, blues music has always been linked to the deep south of the United States, but have you ever wondered where the origins of blues lie? Look no further than West Africa. During the 400 plus years of slavery, the populations who were forcefully kidnapped from their homelands strived to hold on to their cultural roots, and through that, traditional music lived on. Various research projects into the musical origins of blues trace the chords back to traditional instruments such as the ‘Kora’, played by a professional caste of praise singers, called griots or jails, for the rich and aristocracy, and the ‘Akonting’, a folk lute of the Jola tribe of Senegambia, a clear predecessor to the American banjo in its playing style.

As a result of findings in musical research and a renewed interest in the rich local heritage found in West Africa, this style of music has become more and more popular in the West and the names of Amadou & Mariam, Tinariwen, Toumani Diabaté and Vieux Farka Touré are rivalling the most famous of musicians to have set foot on the stages of the big festivals in the UK. Classed as ‘World Music’, a term which I personally find derogative because I feel that it detracts from the real origins of the music and throws all music which is not 'Western' into one basket, this West African genre has found its way in to the line-ups for Glastonbury, WOMAD, the Big Chill and the Isle of Wight festival to mention but a few. This, in turn, has increased media attention and provided marketing opportunities for lesser known festivals in these musicians own countries.

Move over Glastonbury! Make way for the likes of ‘Festival in the desert’ near Essakane and the fabled city of Timbuktu, or ‘Ségou festival’ celebrated on the banks of the Niger River, probably the longest river in the whole of Africa. What better way to experience the ancient melodies of West African blues than to be in the Sahara desert listening to Tinariwen, sipping traditional tea with a group of Tuareg herders who have travelled over the Sahara desert to perform their music with others.

Roberto, a regular to the ‘Festival au Desert’ (the French term is commonly used as Mali is partly French speaking) or ‘Essakane music festival’, recounts some of the unforgettable moments from his last trip: “I remember Amadou & Mariam, who are now world-renowned, sitting at 3 am beside the stage with their sun glasses on waiting for their turn to play. They were like two kids waiting for their exam.”

The atmosphere of conviviality also marked him, as he recounts: “Beside our tent, Swedish girls were singing Swedish songs accompanied by local Tuareg drummers. That set the scene for the theme of this festival: playing together, no matter what nationality, to produce quality music.”

But these festivals, even though the most well know, are not the only ones in the whole of West Africa. In nearly every country, for nearly every season, festivals exist to celebrate a multitude of events. From the St. Louis Jazz Festival in Senegal to the Voodoo rites festivals in Togo and Benin, from the Ashanti Royal Ekisadiwae festival in Ghana to the Dogons Sirius Star celebration in Southern Mali, your thirst for new and unique experiences could never be quenched, and you would need a life-time to discover all of them.

However, every life-changing journey starts with the first step, and there are a variety of tour operators who do offer travel options to experience these exotic and awe-inspiring events. You can find a few examples of tours on the West Africa Discovery web portal. Not only do these give you the opportunity to experience the festivals first hand and in the most genuine way possible, but they also work towards providing economic benefits to local communities in the destinations whilst advocating the use of ‘Responsible Tourism Practices’ to minimise the negative effects of tourism on the local cultural, historical and natural heritage.

If you would like more information on specific festivals in the west African geographical region, or other information concerning local cultural, historical or natural heritage and holiday ideas which can give you the opportunity to experience these first hand, email mail us at info@westafricadiscovery.co.uk.

You can also keep up to date with news touching on West Africa by joining us on twitter or Facebook. We look forward to welcoming you!

Until then, enjoy this great video showing behind-the-scenes at the ‘Festival du Desert’.

Sports Tourism Big in Africa this Summer

2010-04-01T14:10:00.007+01:00

It is set to be a year of massive sporting events, 2010 kicked off with the Winter Olympics in Whistler, and the whole world is anticipating the FIFA World Cup in South Africa this summer. There are many economic and social benefits to hosting international events. Whistler attracted 250,000 visitors to the area and $10 billion in revenues. Along with the financial injection, a host city will see development to infrastructure, increased jobs, and a continued development model of growth even after the event has been and gone.

The World Cup Finals in South Africa this June are on an even bigger scale and could contribute 50 billion rand to the economy, while tourism could generate a further 15 billion rand, with 3.5 million fans expected to attend the tournament. Not only will this be a great boost to the continued development of South Africa but surely for the continent as a whole.

Going to South Africa to watch your team play this summer is no cheap holiday. Once you have bought your flight, paid for a hotel and calculated spending money, the costs can run into the thousands. For those who want to see the Finals in Africa this summer there is another region that is equally amazing, but tourism there is less often on the media map. On the westernmost region of the African continent, West Africa is on the flight route from Europe and America to Cape Town and will be a great destination to visit during the World Cup.

The concept of sports tourism in West Africa is nowhere near the same level as South Africa, but that could be changing with the opening of new facilities such as the Right to Dream academy in Ghana.

Football is the biggest sport in West Africa. Watched and followed everywhere, kids and adults alike pretend to be in their role-models shoes by playing the ‘perfect game’ in every condition, sometimes only with a ball made from rags. Famous footballers such as Didier Drogba and Craig Bellamy are using football as a tool for community development and education through the setting up football and education centres for children in West Africa. It would be great to start channelling more money from sports tourism into communities in countries such as Côte d’Ivoire and Sierra Leone where it is needed most.

In June, West Africa will be alive with passion as their football heroes battle it out on the global stage. Bars and hotels across West Africa will be showing the games, and the local people will be more than happy to welcome and share a drink with a football fan. As well as going for the African football vibe, a holiday here is sure to give an experience of Africa quite different from the roaring stadiums and hustle bustle of crowds in the South African capital. There are four West African teams in the World Cup finals this year; Cameroon, Côte d'Ivoire, Ghana, and Nigeria. These are four very different West African countries with equally amazing possibilities for rich fulfilling natural and cultural holidays.

Cameroon, for example, is home of Barcelona striker Samuel Eto’o. Also dubbed 'Africa in miniature' due to the diversity of its terrain, biodiversity and cultures, Cameroon is one of the most exciting and unexplored countries in West Africa. From lush rainforest hiding waterfalls to pristine beaches, this country has a wealth of resources which can provide tourists with the most unique and unforgettable experiences. Click here for some ideas about holidays in Cameroon.

Another football role-model, Chelsea star Michael Essien, hails from Ghana, the country whose name means ‘Warrior King’. Often considered as the friendliest country in West Africa, this country was the seat of the Royal Court of the once powerful Ashanti Empire, whose vestiges are still visible today in the Ghanaian culture. Festivals, ceremonies and social values are a testimony to the prosperous past of this amazing country. Click here to discover the opportunities for travellers seeking adventure and exploration.

For anyone looking for a different and unique experience of watching the World Cup this summer, West Africa is well worth checking out. It is a culturally rich and diverse region, full of surprises and life changing experiences. There are a wide selection of tour operators whose holidays respect the environment and support the economies of local communities. By choosing responsible tours travellers can discover the beauty of West Africa safe in the knowledge that their trip is making a difference and that money from tourism is going to communities that will really benefit from it.

Sustainable tourism: Educational field trip for local secondary school students in Nigeria

2010-03-24T18:40:00.006Z

Having read some shocking stories about Jos town in central Nigeria over the past few weeks, I would like to also bring you some positive news about the country, to counter these generalisations which give the impression of the whole of Nigeria being a violent country.

In Oyo state, in the South-West of the country, our local expert in Nigeria, Fasoranti Oluseyi Taiwo is organising an educational youth project to increase the awareness of secondary school students about the concept of sustainable tourism. This one-day field trip will involve the children in the development of the concept, by introducing them to a set tourism circuit of a historical site, on which they will be involved in workshops, talks and debates covering different aspects of sustainable tourism. They will also participate in a tree planting scheme to promote environmental awareness and conservation of the local natural heritage.

The historical site in question is the ‘Ancient Warlord Palaces of Idaban’, a location of significance for the local storytellers. It is said that Efunsetan Aniwura, the Iyalode of Ibadan, a powerful, rich and influential High Chief, lost her only child during child labour. Gripped by a terrible sense of loss and the stigma of not having a progeny to inherit her legacies, Efunsetan, who blamed God for her tragedy, vented her anger on the very society she had sworn to defend by the oath she had taken on her installation as the Iyalode of Ibadan.

She became a wicked, cruel, callous, bitter, heartless monster, dreaded by the townspeople. It took the concerted efforts of Ibadan warriors led by Latoosa to loosen her grip of terror on the city. It is a heart-rending story that keeps anyone on the edge of their seat during any theatrical performance that narrates it.

It is hoped that this field trip, by collecting the entry fees to the site and by sourcing local products for the proposed lunch, will make the students value the local natural, cultural and historical heritage as being important elements for the development of tourism and subsequently will ensure the conservation and respect for them.

This project, in association with the Oyo State Government, the Oyo State Tourism Board and various schools from different sectors (private, public and special needs) has been received positively and is being seen as a step forward towards the development and diversification of the tourism industry in a sustainable way.

We will keep you updated on the projects progress.

If you desire to know more about this project, or would like a copy of the project proposal please email us at info@westafricadiscovery.co.uk.

To learn more about West Africa and the Responsible Tourism concept, please visit our website at www.westafricadiscovery.co.uk.

You can also follow us on twitter and Facebook to keep up to date with news, photos, videos, discussions and newly listed West Africa based sustainable tourism projects.

A journey through the Kingdom of Ife

2010-03-15T16:10:00.006Z

When German archaeologist Leo Frobenius first discovered beautiful terracotta sculptures and copper cast head pieces in Nigeria in 1910, he proclaimed that he had discovered Plato’s lost city of Atlantis. European attitudes were so negative to African abilities that he reasoned that the artworks must be the work of foreign settlers, inconceivable to be created by African hands.

Eventually as more works surfaced through further discoveries, explorers began to change their attitudes. The Western world was amazed by their level of detail and quality, so much so in fact that when the exhibition was first opened to the public in the British Museum back in 1948 the London News praised the artworks as "Mysterious Ife Bronze Heads: African art worthy to rank with the finest works of Italy and Greece." Having visited the Kingdom of Ife exhibition at the British Museum last weekend I would have to agree!

This collection has been two years in the making with collaboration between the British Museum, the Museum for African Art, and the Fundación Marcelino Botín in Santander, Spain, and all made possible by Nigeria's National Commission for Museums and Monuments. It is the first time many of these works have been seen outside Nigeria, and most of the near one hundred objects are on loan from museums in Lagos and Ife. Before shipping the artefacts to London, the British Museum sent a team to Nigeria to train local museum staff in packing objects for loans, installing exhibitions and conservation.

The large range of artefacts on display is breath-taking and the collection shows the complexity and mystery of the Kingdom of Ife, a rich and powerful West African city-state in what is now south-west Nigeria.

The origins of Ife can be traced back to 800AD, the heartland of the Yoruba people and grew due to trade links in the 12^th to 15^th century. The kingdom fell into decline when other city states like Benin emerged. The artworks give an amazing cross section of Ife society; including royalty, slaves, warriors and the sick. Many of the masks have facial markings created by facial striations or in some cases the mask had raised welts created using blister beetles. Cantharidin from these beetles is a poisonous chemical causing blistering of the skin, a practice so painful that it had to be abandoned. Another sculpture that really stood out was that of a man suffering from testicle elephantiasis who had probably travelled to Ife to be cured.

However, the sculptures that are most likely to capture the imagination of the visiting public are the magnificent copper heads that depict Ife royalty. Many of these heads were worn in ceremonies even though some of them weigh up to 9kg! The process used to create the copper and brass sculpture is called lost-wax. Check out this video to see how it’s done, an amazing and skilful technique.

The £8 entry fee was worth every penny and I would recommend the exhibition to anyone. This is another example of a renewed interest in West African culture as outlined in Thomas’ previous blog. I for one cannot wait for the summer in the UK and the festival listings that are sure to feature many great West African musicians.

Kingdom of Ife is at the British Museum, Great Russell Street, London, until June 6^th.

A Tribute to the Nigerian Mother… near and far by Iyaniwura Adewunmi

2010-03-14T11:06:00.001Z

The Nigerian Mother….

She nurtures you from birth, watching your every step.
Your pain becomes hers.
She sacrifices her time, listening attentively to your every worry
Her words act as a comfort blanket with whispers of understanding
Carefully placed words are laced with trickles of wisdom
She breaks down barriers with unconditional love
You want to give up, but she breaks your fall
You’re discouraged but she stands you up ‘TALL’

‘My Mum is the fireplace of my family: The key focal point, constantly providing support, warmth, continuous love and understanding’ Ejiro.

The Nigerian Mother…

There is no Substitute.
She loves you regardless, she disciplines you regardless.
She understands what you can’t or won’t say, slowly piercing your thoughts

You have an opinion; she tells you hard facts.

Her expressions speak volumes:
She smiles, you giggle. She frowns, and you know you’ve been warned…
She nags you, because she can. It’s called ‘Discipline 101’
She is 90% right ALL THE TIME. And you are lucky with the other 10%.

You say ‘I am an adult’! She smiles sheepishly and you catch the twinkle in her eye. At that moment you know you will always be her child.

By Iyaniwura (which translates to ‘Mother is Gold’ in the Nigerian Language of Yoruba)

The increasing popularity of West Africa

2010-03-06T13:06:00.008Z

Four years ago I embarked on a life-changing journey to Senegal, to live and study there. I remember before leaving that none of my friends or family in the UK could tell me the location of one of West Africa’s 16 countries, let alone tell me the name of one of its hundreds of tribes, or tell me about the climate in a particular region. Nor had they ever heard of Amadou & Mariam, Tinariwen or Ali Farka Toure, now big names in most of the major European summer music festivals.

Thanks to increased media coverage such as articles in the Guardian and the Independant, covering a range of topics from politics to travel and music coming out of West Africa reaching out to the millions at big UK festivals. Documentaries on the National Geographic and Discovery channels introducing us to different tribal systems and natural wonders and various exhibitions displaying the region’s rich cultural heritage. West Africa is coming out of the ‘black hole’ – as someone described the region to me at last year’s WTM Trade Show - to become a region of the world that inspires, intrigues, mystifies and excites the Western cultural scene.

Why is it only now that we are really discovering a region of the world which is only five hours away by plane? What has made the eyes of the West’s popular culture scene turn towards the likes of Senegal and Sierra Leone, Mali and Cameroon?

West Africa has been off the media map in terms of positive stories for a long time - the only stories that had come out of the region were tales of bloody civil wars, gold and diamond mining, corrupt leaders, disease and famine - but now that is changing; and we are learning a lot more about the deeper aspects of the rich heritage of West Africa.

Musically, West Africa produces some of the most talented acts in/on the so-called ‘World Music’ scene and has included some of the most famous musicians to come out of Africa. Festival organisers such as Glastonbury Festival and WOMAD are now queuing up to get the likes of Tinariwen (Mali), Ismael Lo (Senegal), Baka Beyond (Cameroon) and the Sierra Leone Refugee all stars, booked for the main stages. But also small events such as the Fringe festival in Brighton display musical and dancing acts from West Africa in their Africa Unite II event this year.

Culturally, there are many documentaries being shown on TV which have introduced us to the different tribes of West Africa. The Ashanti from Ghana, the Igbo from Nigeria and the Dogon from Mali are the most well known of them, and have sparked curiosity and stimulated the hearts and minds of those who have watched these programs. Maybe this is because we lack the social values that they have, we are seeking to re-learn something lost or because we find that our lives of too much work and no play need some sort of escape route.

Proof of the ever increasing popularity of West Africa’s traditional cultures is demonstrated by the 'Kingdom of Ife' exhibition (which we will cover in next week’s blog) now showing at the British museum and is already being hailed as ‘Potentially the exhibition of the year’ by the Telegraph newspaper.

Sport is also a big influence on popular interests. Football, for example, has a lot of role models within the most supported teams in the UK who come from West Africa or have an affiliation with the region. Didier Drogba who hails from Côte d’Ivoire and plays for Chelsea is an example and is well known for his skills on the pitch; however it has also come to light that he is a big charity supporter having donated millions to build and sustain hospitals in his home country.

Another player who has created a media buzz about West Africa is Craig Bellamy (Man City) whose foundation has contributed towards setting up sports academies in Sierra Leone.

West Africa’s natural heritage has also come to our TV sets through programmes such as the BBC’s Autumn Watch which has covered Senegal, showing that West Africa has been on the migration path of many species of birds for millennia.

In terms of Tourism, the Guardian and Times travel sections have regularly published articles describing West Africa as an alternate, exciting and new destination for travellers seeking new experiences full of educational opportunities, coupled with sea, sun and beaches (see our previous blog on the potential for West Africa as a Responsible Tourism destination). It also seems as though tourism to the geographical region of West Africa is set to increase. The latest Brussels Airlines' news stating that the airline is now flying directly to Ghana, Benin, Togo and Burkina-Faso from European destinations can only be a sign that the shores of West Africa are worthwhile touristic destinations to fly to.

All the above factors have contributed to the UK’s increasing interest in West Africa and that interest is only set to grow even stronger because of the sheer diversity of cultural, natural and historical heritage still to be discovered.

But instead of waiting for more news, start your own discovery by visiting our web portal (www.westafricadiscovery.co.uk) , joining us on Facebook or following us on Twitter. We look forward to welcoming you!

Working together towards our common goals

2010-02-19T16:30:00.008Z

In a world such as ours it is essential to work together in order to achieve goals. If attempted alone it is not possible. Since West Africa Discovery started we have made a big effort to develop partnerships to help develop Responsible Tourism in the West African region. We are extremely grateful to our current partners in the field who have made a lot of effort already to spread the word of Sustainable Tourism in their respective countries, and to have gathered important information which has helped us grow in the past five months.

This week was a milestone! After filling out various application forms and having waited for board meetings to decide our fate, we have finally been accepted as a member of the International Coalition for Responsible Tourism, a Paris based ‘umbrella’ which has gathered together experts & professionals of the tourism industry, more than 80 NGO’s & associations in 35 countries, and a committee composed of experts each specialising in one of the three axes of sustainable development (economic & fair-trade, social & culture, ecology & biodiversity).

The main aim of the International Coalition is to inform, to raise awareness, to convince and to mobilise the main actors in the tourism field (professionals, governments, national & international NGO's) to the interest of the concept of Responsible Tourism.

As a member, we have been given a mission…

To promote West African Responsible Tourism to the European market
To promote World Day for Responsible Tourism in June by organising a local event during that particular day
To inform, raise awareness and make tourism development authorities (Ministries, local or regional authorities, professionals, etc.) in West Africa understand the importance of getting engaged in a more responsible tourism through lobbying and defense speeches and actions
To raise travellers’ awareness of Responsible Tourism and Sustainable Development

This is exactly what we have set out to do when we started West Africa Discovery. Convenient hey?

So, we are looking forward to the 2nd June 2010, as we will be organising an event to raise awareness and promote the Responsible Tourism concept around West Africa. Watch this space! In the meantime, to learn more about Responsible Tourism, West Africa and what we do at West Africa Discovery, visit our website here.

We also list a selection of unique and unforgettable responsible and sustainable tours, accommodations and volunteer projects, offering the opportunity to discover the wonders of West Africa.

Come rain or shine, West Africa has it all!

2010-02-13T09:42:00.005Z

Sitting in the cabin of a hotel security guard in the Gambia, sipping Ataya ( a bitter tea), I was deep in discussion about tourism in the area, and the decline in the so called ‘beach tourists’ over the past few years. Abdul, my new found friend, was speaking with a serious tone about how a lot of people living in the area were relying on tourism to survive and put food on the table. He was concerned with the decline and made a point of saying that tourists were only coming in the dry season, that someone should try and educate the tourists that there is a lot still to do in the rainy season. So, here I am writing this blog about the wonderful and unique things you can do, see and visit in West Africa come rain or shine.

West Africa is one of the poorest regions in the world, but if wealth would be determined by heritage, then it would be one of the richest.

The geographical region of West Africa abounds with diverse natural habitats where thousands of species of plants and animals thrive. From the dry Sahel region of Senegal and Mali, passing through the tropical rainforests of Sierra Leone and Ghana, down to the equatorial vegetation of Cameroon, there are endless activities to be carried out. How about a rainforest trek in Sierra Leone, visiting the lush waterfalls, witnessing the songs of the variety of bird-life living in the canopies teaming with life; or maybe taking a trip up the Gambia River on a local fishing pirogue visiting the fishing villages along the way and sampling the fresh water fish dishes typical to the region?

These unique activities can be experienced during the dry season, but the rainy season offers another, more lively side. The forests are full of energy, teaming with wildlife making the most of the presence of water; migratory birds, living on an age old instinct arrive from all corners of the world to relish in this lush environment rich in food and ideal for a good rest; plants that have been waiting months for the rain to come let loose their beauty and release their multicoloured flowers, looking as if they are showing off. Another world opens up to the observing eye.

But the natural beauties of West Africa are only the tip of the iceberg! Culturally, the West African region in one of the most diverse in the whole of Africa, and a lot of the cultural events, festivals and rites are as much alive and intact today as they were back in the days of the great Kingdoms. Roberto, from TransAfrica operating for 30 years in West Africa offers an insight into the cultural events that can be witnessed in the rainy season:

“Along the coast of the Gulf of Guinea, it rains from May to July and from September to the start of November, and inland from May to September. Contrary to common belief, it does not rain all the time. There are heavy rains, but they do not last long, maybe an hour or so, and if it is more than a couple of hours it is an event.” He says.

“However, despite the rain, or from the locals’ perspective, because of the rain, a number of big events are celebrated. In Ghana for example, the Asafo festivals in Elmina start in July, the festival in Ada starts in August and the big Accra festival starts in the second half of the same month. The end of September marks the main Voodoo festival in a town called Glidji, in Togo; and then the Yam festival in a village called Bassar, in the North of Togo. So maybe the rain could give travellers plenty of opportunities to witness genuine traditions first hand and a good reason to travel to West Africa!”

But also, the abundance of Historical sites, from relics of the infamous slave trade, ancient vestiges of prosperous Kingdoms, archaeological sites showing signs of the first steps of humanity, and a wealth of museums, libraries and university archives, make a rainy hour or two a great opportunity to learn more about facts which have shaped the way that we live today. Here is a pick of the different rainy day attractions:

In Benin, the Abomey Historical Museum houses the palaces of the ancient Kings of Bénin including King Guézo and King Glèlè; and the Ethnographique Museum, which is Porto Novo’s first museum, currently holds a large collection of archaeological artefacts from different eras of humanity.

In Sierra Leone, the Sierra Leone National Museum is home to the ‘de Ruyter stone’, the main attraction of the museum. The replica of a 1664 rock graffiti, scratched by bored Dutch sea captains during a lull in a military expedition against the English, was discovered in the course of drainage work on the waterfront in 1923. It stands as the oldest archaeological evidence of a European presence in the strip of land.

Senegal, on the other hand, is the location for Gorée Island, one of the most famous, or even infamous, vestiges of the slave trade. ‘La porte du non-retour’ (The door of no-return) is one of the main attractions of the island and depicts the horrendous and brutal trade which was allowed to be carried out for more than 400 years.

So there you go, West Africa is not only a ‘dry season’ holiday destination, it also has the potential to be a great ‘rainy season’ destination for those seeking the thrills of new discoveries, the excitement of participating in age old cultural events, the satisfaction of learning about important historical facts and the excitement of witnessing nature at its best. Come rain or shine, West Africa has it all!

I could carry on for many more pages about the sheer amount of unique, exciting, educational, awe-inspiring and unforgettable experiences that the geographical region of West Africa has to offer, but you can always enquire with West Africa Discovery by emailing us at info@westafricadiscovery.co.uk or you can visit our website (www.westafricadiscovery.co.uk) to discover our selection of sustainable tourism tours, accommodations and volunteer projects.

Africa Cup of Nations: Young Ghana team falter in the final

2010-02-05T18:51:00.005Z

Last Sunday, on a cold day in London, I was settled in for a day of sport which of course featured the Cup of Nations final between Egypt and Ghana. The two hours of coverage on BBC2 gave me the chance to watch football in faraway lands, and enjoy a beer in the comfort of my living room; perfect. Unfortunately this was one of only three matches accessible to the masses (the semi finals were shown on BBC3) and scheduled at the same time as the big Arsenal v Manchester United match. You just have to see pictures of people around the world of people wearing replica shirts to know that the English Premiership match would receive the better coverage. Still, despite the poor scheduling I was looking forward to the final since I was pretty sure it was going to be a good match. Egypt were going for a record third cup title on the trot against a plucky young Ghanaian team who had battled through to the final despite injuries to key players.

It was a true African football classic; North Africa against West Africa, the oldest average team against the youngest, age and experience against energy and technique, and the Cup record holders against their closest rivals to this honour. Egypt didn’t play their best football, and the Ghana Black Stars impressed with their skills and swift counter attacks, however they were unable to prevent the immense skill of Egypt sub Mohamed Nagy Gedo who blew them away with his fifth goal of the tournament (despite coming on as a sub in every game!). The Egyptians dominated the competition on the way to their history making treble. The Pharaohs are now on the longest unbeaten run in the tournament's 53-year history (19 matches spread across the last three tournaments). Their defence only conceded two goals, and they also had the best attack with 15 goals. Player of the tournament was awarded to captain Ahmed Hassan, who is also now Egypt’s most capped player.

Despite Egypt’s record breaking triumphs, the Cup for me and most others was a little disappointing and marred by the violence at the start with the attack on the Togo bus. The pre-tournament tragedy resurfaced towards the end when the Confederation of African Football ridiculously decided to ban Togo from the next two tournaments. Fans at the stadiums were minimal with most flying in the day before because Angola is far too expensive for most to have long term stays. Even if many visitors will largely remember Luanda's hectic traffic, the building works, and the pricey cost of pretty much everything in Angola; locals took pride in showcasing the new stadiums and infrastructure.

The Pharaohs are the best in Africa for the time being, however after they missed out on World Cup qualification I’m counting on the West African teams shining for Africa in a few months time.

Contact me at harry@westafricadiscovery.co.uk

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Bénin: tourism profile of a unique west African country

2010-02-03T16:11:00.004Z

Bénin, a former French Colony in the Central West of Africa lies east of Togo, west of Nigeria and south of Burkina Faso and Niger. It is one of the smallest countries in West Africa, and is a place of unusual beauty. This destination is home to rich natural and cultural heritages, interesting architecture and UNESCO World Heritage historic sites in its capital city Porto Novo. Bénin is easily accessible by air with flights to the city of Cotonou departing from Belgium, France, and a number of African countries.

Markets
Bénin has markets which can be found all over its various towns. For example the Marché Dantokpa street market, in Cotonou, sells traditional items to fetish/voodoo ornaments and handicrafts.

Ganvié, another makeshift market is Africa’s largest lake village. It is in actual fact a fishing village with wood and thatched houses built on stilts over a lake. Visitors use pirogues (small wooden boats) as transport over the lake. At Ganvié, women sell their goods from their boats.

Nature and Wildlife
Bénin’s landscape that is mostly flat with hills and low mountains. There are rivers for fishing, terrain for trekking, and in the north, Bénin has some of the best wildlife areas in West Africa - The Pendjari National Park, one of our partners, is home to leopards, elephants, lions, hippopotamuses, buffalos, antelopes, monkeys and hundreds of bird species.

National Parks and Reserves
The Pendjari National Park is known for its varied wildlife is a hotspot for birdwatchers. The W National Park also offers a good experience. This park is located in the far north of the country and stretches into Bénin’s next door neighbours, Niger and Burkina Faso.

Beaches and Islands
Bénin has a selection of palm-fringed beaches, lakes and lagoons waiting to be explored. Also located in Cotonou is Fidjrosse Beach which is known for being a hub for water sports enthusiasts. Also located in the Southwest of the country is the beach resort of Grand Popo.

Historical and Heritage Sites
Porto Novo, the capital city of Bénin lies between Cotonou, its largest city and Nigeria. It includes a variety of museums, historical attractions and local markets.

Another interesting place to visit is Ouidah, known for the practice of Voodoo, Bénin’s traditional religion. In addition to the history of the religion, Ouidah also offers an insight into the history of the slave trade.

In terms of museums, the Abomey Historical Museum houses the palaces of the ancient Kings of Bénin including King Guézo and King Glèlè. The abundance of ruins and temples in the area are a testimony of the presence of a previously spectacular Empire. The Porto-Novo Musée Honme (Palais Royal), located in the capital, is a castle that was once the former home of King Toffa. Not far from the castle is the Da Silva Museum. This museum displays the history of the Dahomey kingdom to its current democracy.

Also present in Porto Novo is the Ethnographique Museum, which is Porto Novo’s first museum. It currently holds a collection of historical artefacts.

The Door of No Return (Slave Trade Memorial), located in Ouidah is another important historical sight. Slaves were said to circle a sacred tree three times which was believed to help in the process of them forgetting about their past.

There are many more unique and exciting things waiting for you to discover in Bénin. For more information, visit the Bénin Tourism website.

Visit the West Africa Discovery website to see our selection of Responsible Tourism trips based in West Africa.

By Iyaniwura Adewunmi

Africa Cup of Nations: The story so far

2010-01-22T11:19:00.011Z

When writing my last blog I was anticipating the start of the Cup. Sadly the terrorist attack on the Togo team bus has overshadowed the competition; my thoughts go out to the family and friends of those who were attacked. Whilst I do not want to get too political in this blog I feel the need to question the negative comments towards Africa, especially comments from certain football managers that suggested that FIFA should reconsider holding the World Cup in South Africa later in the year. We must remember that Africa is a large continent, why should problems that occur in one country affect those in other countries hundreds of miles away?

There was talk of cancelling the Cup of Nations before a ball was kicked. As a comparison in the UK, Euro ’96 continued despite the Manchester city centre bombing. The day after the bombing over 50,000 were present at Old Trafford in Manchester to watch Germany play Russia. In 2005 the Ashes cricket series continued after the suicide bombings on the London underground, and this was despite another failed attack the day it was due to start and terrorist plans to attack the crowd at Lords. Of course, these examples are different to what has happened in Angola as the attacks in the UK were not directly on a team, but to cancel the competition would have let the terrorists win. Angola has a history of trouble, but to get to where it is today and to be hosting the Cup of Nations is remarkable. Just like the West, Africa must be given the chance to learn from hosting these competitions. Let us remember the lost Togolese, but not use this as an opportunity to knock Africa.

Going back to the Cup there have been a few surprises with Côte d’Ivore being held to a 0 – 0 draw by fellow West Africans Burkina Faso, and Cameroon losing 1 – 0 to Gabon. Nigeria did not fare any better losing 3 – 1 to current holders Egypt. The match I had been looking forward to was Côte d’Ivore v Ghana. This proved to be a lively encounter with my team tipped for the Cup, Côte d’Ivore, winning 3 – 1. Despite Eboue being sent off in the 55^th minute, goals from Gervinho, Tiene and Drogba sealed an emphatic win for the Elephants. Ghana could only pull one back with Gyan scoring a penalty in extra time. Since this match last Friday the ‘top’ teams have established dominance with wins for Nigeria (beating Benin 3 – 0), Cameroon (beating Zambia 3 – 2), and Ghana (beating Burkina Faso 1 – 0). Ghana scraped through the group stages but lost Michael Essien - one of their best players - on the way with a torn ligament that will keep him out of action for a month.

From the West African teams that started the competition we have now lost Mali, Burkina Faso, Benin, and Togo (who withdrew from the competition due to the tragic attack on their team bus). This now leaves the top dogs of West African football in the cup; Cameroon, Côte d’Ivore, Ghana and Nigeria. The quarter finals will take place over Sunday and Monday:

Angola v Ghana 24/01/2010 16:00 (GMT) Luanda

Côte d'Ivoire v Algeria 24/01/2010 19:30 (GMT) Cabinda

Egypt v Cameroon 25/01/2010 16:00 (GMT) Benguela

Zambia v Nigeria 25/01/2010 19:30 (GMT) Lubango

With less than 10 days of the Cup left I’m looking forward to seeing if my predictions come true for once and Côte d’Ivoire can go all the way. If they overcome Algeria in the quarters then they will face either Egypt or Cameroon, both excellent teams. Whatever happens, it is sure to be interesting!

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Contact me at harry@westafricadiscovery.co.uk

Sierra Leone: a country with huge tourism potential

2010-01-16T15:12:00.005Z

Situated in West Africa, with its pristine beaches, transparent seas, tropical forests, unique wildlife, historical heritage sites and most importantly friendly people, Sierra Leone (or Salone, as it is known to the locals), with Royal Air Maroc flights from £500, has great potential to become the next destination for those looking for new experiences and a friendly, relaxing atmosphere.

Once you have decided that Sierra Leone is your next travel spot, the next step is to decide on what to do on your stay in this fascinating country. The list of things to do is endless with so many attractions to pick from. This list below highlights a few of the possible options.

Markets
Sierra Leone is deemed the fishing ground of West Africa. For the fishing enthusiast this is the place to be. The markets in Freetown (the Capital) are vibrant and bustling as every trader looks to sell their produce.

Nature and Wildlife
Turtle Island is a conservation society surrounded by a fishing community. Besides the fishing there are excellent opportunities for bird watching, with breeding colonies in the Western Peninsula Forest Reserve not far from Freetown.

Also found on the south-western coast of Sierra Leone is the Yawri bay located about 60km southeast of Freetown. Yawri Bay is home to tens of thousands of birds for a quarter period of the year. It also supports a major local fishing industry.

National Parks / Reserves
National Parks are many in Sierra Leone, and shelter an abundance of Flora and Fauna species. They are Kuru Hills, Lake Mape/Mabesi, Lake Sonfon, Loma Mountains, Outamba-Kilimi, Western Area. The Outamba Kilimi National Park has an interesting array of animals from the Chimpanzee to Savanna Buffalo to Leopards. It is also an excellent spot for bird watching.

There are also a few wildlife Sanctuaries, which aim to protect endangered species of wildlife and plants. These include Bo Plains, Tiwai Island, Tacugama Chimpanzee Sanctuary, and nature reserves such as Bagru-Moteva Creeks, Bumpe Mangrove Swamp, Kagboro Creek (Yawri Bay), Kpaka-Pujehun, Sewa-Waanje are also a must-see.

Some nature reserves in Sierra Leone are strictly non hunting nature reserves and forest reserves. These are: The Kambui Hills Forest Reserve is situated about 300 km south-east of Freetown with the second highest peak in Sierra Leone, the Sankan Birriwa. The scenic nature would be very appealing to visitors and scientists with over 200 separate species of birds.

Tingi Hills Forest Reserve also a non-hunting reserve is located close to Sierra Leone’s eastern border with the Republic of Guinea. The Tingi Hills is the easternmost mountain range in Sierra Leone. The forest reserve includes two peaks separated by a narrow gorge. Both peaks stand over 1800m, but the northernmost which is 1850m high, is the second highest in Sierra Leone.

Beaches and Islands
The Banana Islands are the location for interesting historical facts like the firing point and four guns near the old wharf at Dublin and the two old Tombstones in the cemetery also at Dublin. You can also enjoy lobster, fish or chicken for lunch before heading back to Freetown.

The west of Freetown is mainly residential and further west (South-West) you will find some of the country’s most beautiful beaches. Like the Freetown Peninsula which is bestowed with breath-taking beauty.

As tourism is still developing in Sierra Leone these beaches remain in pristine condition. Other beaches include Lungi Beaches, Shenge, Sulima, Sherbro Peninsular, and Turner’s Peninsular.

Historical and Heritage Sites
Sierra Leone also offers attractions that cater for those who are interested by historical facts. Remnants from the early colonial eras are still present in the country.

The Sierra Leone national Museum is the home of the ‘Ruiter stone’, the main attraction of the museum. The replica of a 1664 rock graffito, scratched by bored Dutch sea captains during a lull in a military expedition against the English, was discovered in the course of drainage work on the waterfront in 1923. It stands as the oldest archaeological evidence of a European presence in the strip of land.

Old Fourah Bay College located in Freetown stands as the oldest university in West Africa having the likes of Samuel Ajayi Crowther, as the college’s first student and the first African Anglican Bishop from Nigeria.

The St John's Maroon Church was erected by the Maroons in 1822, who arrived in the colony in 1800 as those returning from Jamaica. It is among the oldest churches in Sierra Leone. It stands between current day Liverpool Street and Percival Street.

The Gateway to the Old King's Yard: When Sierra Leone became a British Colony and the abolition Act had come into effect, the Navy were deployed in trying to stop the still on-going Slave Traffic. The rescued slaves where landed at King Jimmy Wharf and taken to a compound constructed for them. This site was referred to as the King’s Yard. Popular figures to have passed through ‘The Asylum’ include Samuel Ajayi Crowther and John Ezzidio.

Bunce Island was the largest British slave castle lying on the Sierra Leone River of West Africa. Founded around 1670, it exported tens of thousands of African captives to North America and the West Indies until it was closed it down in 1808.

And these are just the tip of the iceberg when it comes to the appeal that Sierra Leone has, and the potential it shows as a popular destination for those seeking new experiences and a friendly, relaxed atmosphere. For more information on the things to do, visit and see in Sierra Leone, visit the Sierra Leone National Tourism Board website.

West Africa Discovery is currently in talks with ground tour operators and other tourism suppliers in Sierra Leone in order to be able to compile a database of tours, accommodation and voluntourism projects which have implemented or are in the process of implementing policies which reflect the Cape Town, Kerala and the recent Belize declarations on Responsible Tourism in destinations, and subsequently list them under their Responsible Tourism ‘Holidays’ pages.

Article written by Iyaniwura Adewunmi.

Visit West Africa Discovery by clicking here.

Contact me at thomas@westafricadiscovery.co.uk

Africa Cup of Nations: Kicking off a great year for African football

2010-01-06T09:55:00.024Z

Happy New Year and welcome to the first WAD blog of 2010! As Tom mentioned last week the last year has been a busy one, and there is going to be plenty of exciting stuff coming up too. As I’ve talked about in a previous blog there is going to be a massive focus on the African continent this summer with the World Cup Finals hosted in South Africa. For the sport hungry people amongst you there is a nice warm-up to the World Cup with the Africa Cup of Nations starting in Angola within the next few days.

The Africa Cup of Nations is the main football competition for African countries held every two years. This historic year of African football kicks off the continent's football extravaganza this Sunday when Angola hosts the 27th Cup of Nations. The competition started in 1957, three years before Europe staged a similar tournament. Since then the Cup of Nations has evolved from a small event to become one of the most eagerly awaited tournaments in the world, featuring some of the finest talent from Europe's biggest clubs.

This event has been highly anticipated by Angolans who, using funds from the IMF and China, have constructed four new football stadiums. It was only seven years ago that the 27 year long civil war came to an end, a war which took a million lives and displaced four million others. The fact that Angola has been chosen to host the 2010 cup is a sign of confidence in the stability of the region and shows that this once deeply troubled country is on the rise. It is an oil rich country, and despite the controversies around African oil mining, this is surely what the government are relying on to help build up the infrastructure and bring the country out of poverty. Oil provides 95% of Angola’s export wealth, mostly from exporting to China. China’s role in Africa gets a bad rap in the Western media at the moment; this article gives an interesting counter viewpoint (but that’s a whole debate for another day).

By hosting the Africa Cup of Nations over this month, Angola also hopes that it can kick start its tourism industry. Angola has a lot to offer with its pristine beaches, warm climate, and distinct colonial Portuguese architecture. However Angola is not a destination for your regular English speaking tourist, seeking creature comforts. English is not widely spoken (80% speak Portuguese) and means of transport such as taxis were only introduced a month before the cup. But this is where local operators on the ground can help and give tourists a unique and inspiring experience.

Unfortunately, flights to Angola from Europe are expensive and tend to be booked up by oil and construction companies in advance, with flights starting at 1,000 dollars. Travelling to Angola to watch their team this month will be way too expensive for most African football fans. A standard hotel room in the capital of Luanda cost more than 400 dollars per night, and restaurants charge the same if not more than what you would expect to pay in London. As Angola continues to grow a better tourism infrastructure can be implemented, with the money created going back into local communities.

Egypt may be the competition’s current champions, but once again the West African region has shown its dominance of African football, claiming four of the five spots for the World Cup in South Africa. Cameroon, Cote d'Ivoire, Ghana and Nigeria have booked their places in the 2010 World Cup in South Africa. For the 2010 Africa Cup of Nations, fifteen teams join host country Angola. They are Cameroon, Gabon, Togo, Nigeria, Tunisia, Mozambique, Ghana, Benin, Mali, Côte d'Ivoire, Burkina Faso and Malawi; eight of which are West African countries!

The bookmakers’ favourites for the competition are Côte d'Ivoire with a team filled with players from the top levels of European football clubs. They qualified comfortably and have a number of talented players in their side including Didier Drogba, brothers Kolo & Yaya Toure, Didier Zokora, Emmanuel Eboue, and Salomon Kalou, also making them one of the outside chances for the World Cup. Two years ago Cote d’Ivore arrived at the Cup of Nations in Ghana as favourites only to be overrun 4-1 by Egypt in the semi-final. This time around they will be keen to dispel accusations of complacency and showcase their talent in what is set to be a great year for African football.

The groups have been drawn as follows:

Group A: Algeria, Angola, Malawi, Mali

Group B: Burkina Faso, Cote d'Ivoire, Ghana, Togo

Group C: Benin, Egypt, Mozambique, Nigeria

Group D: Cameroon, Gabon, Tunisia, Zambia

The first match is on Sunday with Angola Vs Mali. A full schedule can be found on the Confederation of African Football website. Stay tuned to West Africa Discovery for updates on the West African teams’ progress in the Cup. Until Sunday check out this video made by Puma showcasing the new African team kits.

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Contact me at harry@westafricadiscovery.co.uk

Happy New Year from West Africa Discovery!

2009-12-31T18:34:00.006Z

Wow, what an exciting first three months! The whole concept for West Africa Discovery has been thought of for some time, but 2009 has been a landmark year for us; the year that all the ideas and concepts have become a physical and online reality. It hasn’t always been easy, but it’s never been a chore. Things don’t always run smoothly when starting up a business from scratch, especially when everything is run on a tight budget. However, over the last three months the team have surpassed obstacles, solved mind-boggling problems and have come up with some great ideas to smooth everything out to a point where we feel comfortable running a platform in a successful way for our clients and customers; where we can offer the best of the Responsible Tourism projects based in West Africa.

We have listed our first Responsible Tourism projects, created a database of information to raise awareness towards the region, created partnerships with organisations that share the same values and participated in a successful World Travel Market event. We have welcomed two ‘local experts’ to the Ghana and Nigeria countries to the team and we are ready for 2010 to pursue our mission to be the first port of call for tourists looking to visit Africa by offering them unique accommodation, tour and volunteering ideas which benefit local communities in the destination whilst respecting the natural, cultural, social and historical heritages.

On behalf of myself and the team at West Africa Discovery I wish all of you a Happy New Year for 2010, and may your current and future projects be successful.

Thomas Armitt
Founder & Operating Director

Visit www.westafricadiscovery.co.uk, and contact me on thomas@westafricadiscovery.co.uk

West Africa Christmas time... Baobab and palm wine

2009-12-23T12:05:00.008Z

In the UK we usually associate Christmas with family, eating and drinking (often to excess!), giving presents, Father Christmas and a Christmas tree. But how is the tradition celebrated in West Africa, a region of the World where Christianity is at its freshest, where missionaries have only been preaching for about 150 years?

West Africa is a culturally diverse region; comprised of 16 countries, where Islam and Christianity dominate thousands of different tribes speaking hundreds of different languages. Therefore it is unsurprising that Christmas is celebrated in a multitude of different and colourful ways. West Africa is a very religious place. Belief is central to every household whether it is for Allah, Jehovah, Jesus, or the multitude of gods founds in the more animistic religions. Regardless of deity many have been taking Christmas up as an annual celebration where prayer, family, parties and merrymaking play an important role.

All over West Africa, from Senegal to Cameroon, Nigeria to Sierra Leone, parties of different sizes and significances are initiated on either the 24th or 25th December. Even in the poorer countries, an effort is made by all to carry out the tradition and join the celebrations.

According to Afrol News, Sierra Leonean celebrations include partying and ancient local traditions. Like in most countries outside Africa, pre-Christian traditions and popular costumes have been mixed with religious sermons, making the Sierra Leonean yuletide quite unique. Ancient and spectacular masquerades and masking ceremonies now play a major part in Christmas celebrations in Freetown, where the majority of people participate in the colourful party. In the cities, the police musical bands and other bands play Christmas songs in the streets during all December, and nobody escapes the yuletide feeling.

Further North, in Senegal, dominated at 95 percent by the Islamic religion, but with a minority of Christians around Dakar and Casamance in the South, the atmosphere of Christmas is still present.

I remember being in Dakar a week before Christmas, and the local petrol stations and shops had paintings of Christmas trees, Father Christmas and snow on the windows and walls. Decorations were everywhere, and people were greeting me with "Merry Christmas". Maybe the reason for this is because of the increasing presence of televisions in the wealthier households where the most popular programmes are either dubbed American or French sit-coms where Christmas is the main theme during the end of the year. I also heard that even the Islam practicing households hand out gifts on the 24th and 25th of December.

Nigeria, on the other hand, is a country where Christmas is one of, or even maybe the most important event of the year on the festivity calendar because of the high concentration of Christian practitioners.

Taiwo, our local expert for Nigeria, explains how festivities are carried out in his home country:

“Christmas is a unique festival in Nigeria unlike any other part of the world. Christmas Day is a public holiday that is celebrated mainly in the southern and eastern parts of Nigeria.

Nigerians have special traditions they employ to celebrate Christmas. Almost everyone goes to church on Christmas Day. Weeks before the day, people buy lots of hens, turkeys, goats and cows. Children hover around the beasts, taunting and staring at them.

There are feverish preparations for travel, holiday, and exchange of gifts, carolling and all manner of celebrations.

On Christmas Eve, traditional meals are prepared. In Yoruba, such meals usually include Iyan, (pounded yam) eba or amala, served with peppery stewed vegetables. People find themselves eating this same meal three to four times on that day, as they are offered it at every house they visit; and according to Yorùbá customs, it is considered rude to decline to eat when offered food. Other meals include rice served with chicken stew; some families would include a delicacy called Moin-moin; which are blended black eyed beans, mixed with vegetable oil and diced liver, prawns, chicken, fish and beef. The concoction is then wrapped in large leaves and then steamed until cooked.

Another tradition is that of decorating homes (compounds) and churches with both woven and unwoven palm fronds, Christmas trees and Christmas lights. There are the festive jubilations on the streets, the loud crackling of fireworks and luminous starry fire crackers going off, traditional masquerades on stilts parading about and children milling about displaying their best clothes, or Christmas presents.

There are no other celebrations that compare to Christmas festivities in Nigeria, where everyone can personalise their own festival, and one family’s enthusiasm merges with others; both physically and psychologically, creating a universe of fun and bonhomie.”

North West of Nigeria, in Southern Mali, tolerance and community feel dominate the festivities in Dogon country, where Islam, Christianity and African religions exist side by side in most villages. The blending of masquerades from an ancient death cult and traditional songs and dances with midnight masses and a local lamb dish inspired from biblical tales, are common place.

And these are only the tip of the iceberg. West Africa comprises so much diversity that it is impossible to pinpoint every Christmas celebration in the region, however in terms of experiencing them; there is of course the possibility to visit the countries to discover these festivities first hand.

According to a Nigerian blog, “West African rich Christmas traditions even have it in them to become a tourist attraction and should be a serious candidate for Unesco's World Heritage list.” So maybe some of the tour operators in West Africa could think about incorporating these cultural elements into some of their tours, as long as the local communities benefit economically and the destinations heritages are respected.

Visit West Africa Discovery to learn more about West Africa.

Contact me at thomas@westafricadiscovery.co.uk

How climate change is affecting West Africa

2009-12-16T14:08:00.014Z

The Copenhagen talks on climate change were suspended on Tuesday due to a walk out by the African union. Tensions rose because the African delegates feel that the Kyoto Protocol is being undermined by the richest developed countries. The Kyoto Protocol gives poorer countries different goals to richer countries in terms of carbon emission reduction, allowing them a better chance to develop. The proposed ‘all on the same level’ stance risks undermining the underdeveloped countries’ development efforts in favour of the richer countries’ financial models.

This made me think, “How could West Africa be, or more to the point, how is it currently being affected by climate change?”

Unsurprisingly, as I had already done some research on the subject for a previous blog piece on deforestation, the findings were rather negative. West Africa is comprised of some of the poorest countries on the planet, and the populations living in the region will no doubt be affected on a larger scale than those of the more developed countries of the world. Not only are these predictions, but they are already a reality and can be witnessed firsthand.

The effects of climate change: Past, Present and Future

A report by former U.S. Vice President Al Gore and Norwegian Foreign Minister Jonas Gahr Stoere predicts that world sea levels could rise by up to 2 metres by 2100, with worrying signs of a thaw in Antarctica. "It is now estimated that sea levels will rise between 0.5 and 1.5 meters by 2100, and in the worst case by 2.0 meters. This will affect many hundreds of millions of people living in coastal areas," they said in a report.

But on most of the coastal areas of West Africa, the signs of erosion are already too apparent to ignore. Chunks of the coast line have been crumbling away long before the Kyoto protocol was even initiated.

An article written by Ibe and Quelennac in 1989 demonstrates this: "Coastal erosion already has been reported to reach 23-30 m annually in some parts of coastal West Africa"; and coupled with the effects of pollution and environmental disregard, the damage is even greater as explained in a report by the WRI in 1990; "In Cote d'Ivoire, high erosion rates have been reported in areas off the Abidjan harbor. It also is estimated that about 40% of the mangroves in Nigeria had been lost by 1980; about 60% of mangrove areas in Senegal also have been lost as a result of mangrove clearing, coastal erosion, and increases in the salinity of water and soil."

Moving inland, the effects of climate change will, according to a recent BBC news article, increase the instances of 'megadroughts' which will affect the lives of millions of West Africans whose alimentary needs are reliant on agriculture and the yearly rainfalls during the 3-4 month rainy season. The region's most recent dry episode was the Sahel drought which claimed at least 100,000 lives, and perhaps as many as one million in the 1970s and 80s; but with the likelihood of man-made green house gasses exacerbating the length of droughts to come, the prospect of coping with a century long 'megadrought' is daunting.

From one climate change engendered extreme to another, floods have become common place in western Africa. Due to the history of droughts in the area, the soil has lost its absorbance qualities and with heavier but sparser rainfalls, communities all over West Africa have been experiencing the devastation of these natural disasters. This year alone, some 350,000 people have been affected in six countries. The United Nations reported that Burkina Faso was the worst affected, and the floods also spread to Ghana, Niger, Guinea, Senegal and Benin. But these are not recent events.

Over the years people have been suffering on a large scale. In 2007, UN aid agencies reported that severe flooding killed some 300 people and displaced 800,000.

Not only are these catastrophic events detrimental to the communities in the short-term, but it also has a more lasting effect. Livelihoods are destroyed in an instance, infrastructure is damaged beyond repair, crops and livestock are drowned and not to mention the water-borne diseases that thrive after the flood water has dissipated.

“It’s a very worrisome situation that further weakens already impoverished populations,” said Hervé Ludovic de Lys, head of the UN Office for the Coordination of Humanitarian Affairs (OCHA) in West Africa. “Natural disasters have lasting consequences that will have an impact for decades to come and take us back to square one in terms of the fight against poverty.”

The OCHA has noted that climate change is driving these natural disasters, with the region possibly paying a high human cost due to global warming. In response to this situation, during the current UN climate change conference in Copenhagen, Denmark, West African nations are holding frequent high-level and expert meetings on the issue.

COP15 talks to find a solution

In response to the growing emphasis that climate change and manmade green-house gas exacerbated global warming is actually playing a major role in increasing natural disaster instances in the West African region, the Economic Community of West African States (ECOWAS) has seen a need for ”drafting a new legal instrument aimed at protecting people displaced by the effects of climate change and who are now outside their country of origin,” according to a declaration from an ECOWAS conference held in the Togolese capital Lome.

The declaration further calls for the ”establishment of a special fund on the impact of climate change on the affected populations” and for the concern by the Western African states over human rights issues in relation to climate change to be included ”in the formulation of a common African position during the Copenhagen talks."

The current debate

During this testing time for our planet and its inhabitants, the COP15 conference has been hailed as a big step forward towards the unity of the world’s perspective towards making a change in order to counteract the effects of man-made greenhouse gas exacerbated climate change.

However, it is the poorest and most underdeveloped countries that will be most affected by the effects of carbon emissions that the developed countries have been pumping into the atmosphere for more than a century.

Let us hope that an agreement will be made which will take into consideration all the ‘more complicated’ elements of the climate change debate and not only the financial stability of already thriving nations.

Conclusion

I wanted to end this post by a quote which reflects the issues of climate change and came across an array of very meaningful ones such as Michael Jacksons ‘Heal the World’ classic and Lenny Henry's "The global warming scenario is pretty grim. I'm not sure I like the idea of polar bears under a palm tree." quote. However, I feel that this one by Barack Obama encompasses the situation that we, as Earth's inhabitants, find ourselves in:

“The issue of climate change is one that we ignore at our own peril. There may still be disputes about exactly how much we're contributing to the warming of the earth's atmosphere and how much is naturally occurring, but what we can be scientifically certain of is that our continued use of fossil fuels is pushing us to a point of no return. And unless we free ourselves from a dependence on these fossil fuels and chart a new course on energy in this country, we are condemning future generations to global catastrophe.”

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The World Cup effect: West African role models, Charity and Sports Tourism

2009-12-10T22:19:00.043Z

West Africa in the World Cup

The 2010 World Cup Finals in South Africa next year will give African football teams a great opportunity to shine on the global stage (an estimated 715.1 million people watched the 2006 final). West Africa Discovery greeted news of Côte d'Ivoire, Ghana, and Nigeria’s qualifications with big smiles. After some friendly banter amongst the team about who we would be supporting next summer, we setup a poll to ask which team has the best chance of succeeding. My personal vote went to the Nigeria Super Eagles; it is always nice to see the underdogs succeed! The fact that half of the African teams that have qualified are West African goes to show the region’s dominance of African football.

On Friday afternoon I logged straight onto the sports news to check out the draw for the group stages. Obviously I was excited about England’s draw, but also wanted to check out who our West African teams had got. The draw for the group stages could prove to be challenging for the West African teams with Côte d'Ivoire drawing previous world cup winners, Brazil and Portugal, and the less formidable North Korea. Ghana was the only qualifying team to progress past the group stage in Germany 2006. They also have a tough draw facing Germany, Serbia and Australia. Nigeria who only just about qualified, face Argentina, Greece and South Korea. No easy draw for all teams concerned, but with a little luck who knows what could happen.

Of the six African teams, Cote d'Ivoire, with their world class striker Didier Drogba are the favourites for the competition. Didier Drogba plays for Chelsea in the English Premier League and has arguably the highest global profile amongst African players. Anyone who has watched Drogba in action will know that Côte d'Ivoire will be reliant on his strength and pace to get them through to the knockout stages.

Football and Charity

In the United Kingdom Drogba has a reputation of two halves. On one hand he is viewed as a talented player and goal scorer, but on the other he is can be viewed rather more negatively for being light footed and diving too often. Regardless of this, something that is less widely spoken about in the UK is his charity work and role model status for his native country. In 2007 he was appointed ‘Goodwill Ambassador’ by the United Nations Development Programme.

Drogba recently signed a new advertising deal with Pepsi worth £3million. He has pledged the entire amount to setting up a hospital and orphanage in Côte d'Ivoire that hopes to be up and running by the end of 2010. The hospital is part of the Didier Drogba Foundation - set up by the 31 year-old last year - and as well as being able to accommodate upwards of 200 patients the centre will be an orphanage. Unsurprisingly, this has had great support throughout the football and international community. Gestures and actions like these show the positive effect that football and sport in general can have on the communities that most need this investment.

Another footballer working towards helping West Africa is Welsh star Craig Bellamy. Craig Bellamy is infamous in the English Premier League for falling out with referees, managers and teammates, and is generally portrayed in a negative light in the UK media. However, despite his short temper and moments of misjudgement, he has invested time and money to help support West African communities. After visiting Sierra Leone in 2007 he has since setup the Craig Bellamy Foundation. The foundation runs a successful academy that not only teaches sport but seeks to give an education to disadvantaged children in Sierra Leone.

Craig Bellamy’s work sits alongside other schemes such as the Right to Dream academy in Ghana and supports the Score4Africa Living Football scheme which aims to use football to build community centres.

The international sports industry is worth billions of pounds, and by combining with foundations and charities, its key stars are taking the right steps in funnelling some of the funds into development amongst African communities. Let’s hope West Africa continues to produce stars like Drogba who, despite living the high life in European teams, continue to give back to the communities that nurtured their talents.

The World Cup and Sports Tourism

The World Cup in South Africa also looks likely to continue the growing development of sports tourism. Nigeria and the United States have a collaboration that should enable more American tourists to visit Nigeria to watch, and participate in traditional and contemporary sports, and related tourism activities in Nigeria. After hearing about Nigerian sports development I investigated further and read an article in TourismROI. The article describes the construction of impressive sounding luxurious resorts that cater for sports enthusiasts and by the sounds of things will provide jobs and stimulate economic opportunities in the area. However, will constructions on such a major scale take into consideration the environmental surroundings of the resort?

I think the best method for ‘sports tourism’ that will have a direct impact on the community is through grassroots volunteer schemes. There are more and more possibilities for sports ‘voluntourism’ that can help local communities to learn new skills. Projects such as Real Gap allow volunteers to travel to Ghana and help the local community by being a coach and mentor to local kids. If these projects take into consideration the criteria outlined in the Cape Town, Kerala and Belize declarations on Responsible Tourism; then not only will the communities benefit, but also the natural, cultural, social and historical heritages will be respected.

Just as in the UK, the African nation loves football. Hosting the World Cup for the first time can only help to develop community schemes and help the football industry. In 2010 the African nation will be dreaming of their stars holding the cup aloft. Just imagine the size of the party if an African team were to be victorious, an event that would unite the hopes and dreams of an entire continent. With these dreams, we must continue to use sport as a means to secure a better tomorrow for Africa.

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Contact me at harry@westafricadiscovery.co.uk